The benefit
of holidays was amply demonstrated during our first few hours, with a book each
and several cups of tea before we even got to a breakfast of bacon and eggs!
Somewhere
deep into the morning, we set of with packs for what we figured would be a big
ask of Sue’s bag but determined to give it a go. We were off along the track to
Deep Creek Cove, the turn back point for a 6.4km return trip down from the
ridge we were on, to the sea. Walking through the bright yellows and pale pinks
of a variety of wildflowers and stunted, shrubby trees burnt by bushfire
sometime in the last few years, things started out easily but within a kilometre,
the track was sloping down and had degenerated into a rough collection of rocks.
We persevered for another seven or eight hundred meters until Sue turned back
and I went on in case there was something to see other than the constant view
of Deep Creek descending on our left and the Southern Ocean on our right.
With no
change after another half a kilometre, I turned back too. Two aged Adelaide
types - I christened them Jocko and Millicent - rubbed salt into our wounds as
we sat gasping by the track, ascending past us with their $600 walking shoes
and ski poles and cheery greetings. They named flora and fauna as they walked
on until out of earshot. My arm being what it is these days, all the rocks I
threw missed.
Back at
camp, rather than waste the day, we took to the park roads to find a place for
lunch. Tapanappa Lookout was our first choice and a good one at that. We ate in
the car - there were no picnic tables or viewing platform or signs for that
matter - and looked east along the coastline toward Boat Harbor Beach (that’s
how they spell it) from our elevated position on the exposed heights at
Tapanappa.
After lunch,
our touring took us the Pages Lookout and then most of the way to Boat Harbor
Beach, accessible by walking track or 4WD track. I made it to the top of the
switch back section of the road, less than a kilometre from the end but Sue
drew a breath at the top of the extremely steep track and had one of those Man
From Snowy River moments but chose to stay with the experienced riders. As a
result, we didn’t go further. It was a pity as the Forester would have handled
it and I was looking forward to testing out the “descending mode”, where the
vehicle crawls down extreme slopes at walking pace. As a younger man I might
have argued but testosterone bows to my wife’s happiness these days. In her
defence, it was bloody steep!
I had sought
the reassurance of the staff at the ranger headquarters for this track and
another which leads down to Blowhole Beach but both our visits were confronted
with a locked door and staff members on the phones at desks inside: the
difference between a Conservation Park and National Park I guess.
The middle
to late afternoon were spent of Kangaroo Island research and getting blogs up
to date. The first leg of our $540 return ferry ride awaits us tomorrow.
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