Apsley Gorge (Oxley Wild Rivers NP)

Disabled from our more favoured longer trips, we are undertaking a wee little venture in the first few weeks of November.

First port of call was Apsley Gorge - part of the extensive Oxley Wild Rivers NP which stretches through a system of dramatic gorges from Hilgrove in the north to almost the Oxley Highway in the south and from the Northern Tablelands east of Walcha, all the way to the deep eastern forests. Its title comes from the fact explorer John Oxley traversed much of the territory and viewed the falls in September 1818, naming them Bathurst Falls. In 1902, with Walcha well and truly settled, three local men - Ted Baker, Jim McMillan and "Wattie" Joiner, built a wooden staircase which zig zagged down to the water's edge, without the use of anything but had swung equipment. There are pictures of gentlemen and ladies enjoying the water in the first thirty years of the 20th century until authorities declared the ladder unsafe.

Apsley Falls has been a favourite spot for us over the years, often visited for day trips from home to picnic by the Apsley River, which seems to wandering benignly past in the sunshine ... until you leave the picnic area. Beyond, the gorge opens up to reveal a dramatic 65 metre drop to the first of two splash pools. Whilst it was little more than an enthusiastic trickle while we were there, when the Apsley system has lavished on rain, the full face of the sheer drop is a stunning cascade. There are three platforms from which to observe the first drop, which many mistakenly believe is the extent of the falls. If it were, it would be enough. The first is wheel chair accessible, as is the Rim Walk, which starts from this point and returns via the top of the gorge, with three viewing stations offering spectacular views of what is an even deeper gorge than it first appears.

The 65m drop of the first falls

Back at the first falls, the fitter among you may like to descend to two further platforms, the course of the stairs tracking some of the path of the original wooden staircase. The platforms give slightly different but equally impressive options to view the rapidly tumbling Apsley River.

For those with a littler more time and energy, the Oxley Walk is a wise investment. The 2.7km return walk crosses the Apsley on a modern suspension footbridge which replaced a series of steel grid narrow walkways which were hinged to flip over during floods and therefore not be damaged. Most floods damaged them. Nature 1. NPWS 0. The bridge floats well above the river now and should it ever be reached by flood water, keep an eye open for Noah. The Oxley Walk continues around the northern end of the gorge, initially offering views back to the falls and viewing platforms. Soon after it climbs steeply but thankfully, not for long and the full extent of the gorge, especially here on the high side, starts to stagger you. Here the vertical drops are in the order of 180 metres from edge to splash down.

About then, with the falls off to the west, and this huge rut cut vertically down slate walls, you discover the second set of falls, which don't seem as high because they are so far below you, but they are 58 meters in height. The splash pool below them is enormous and is added to by the casual run off from the step slopes above the walk, such that during rain, the walls cascade with a curtain of water.

We spent three nights in the very tidy Falls Campground. The toilets - flushing not long drop - were clean and keep that way by daily visits from park staff. The camping spots for wheeled visitors are individual and asphalted. There a few level sites but most have some sort of tilt. Camping fees are reasonable, especially considering the toilets and the gas bbq's, although in fairness of reporting, they bbq's didn't get very hot.

It rained each day, but the sloped site means it got away quickly, even in the two hour thunderstorm we had on the last afternoon. Some lovely birdies were spotted and we were befriended (because we don't want to say pestered) by a family of Magpies. Kangaroos, wallabies and even a brush-tailed possum and her back-riding infant were spotted during various parts of the day and night.

Click to see today's photos

Day visitors are well catered for in a separate area nearer to the top falls lookout.

The Apsley Falls section of Oxley Wild Rivers is 18 kms east of Walcha on the Oxley highway and all roadways are bitumen.