SFT Tour - Day 3 - Mudge/Sofala/Hill End/Bathurst

Hill End

We made an easy run down the Castlereagh Highway as far as Ilford, before turning west towards Sofala. The road took on hills and a lot more bends, until we found ourselves on the steep hill which led down into the village that time didn't forget but rather ravaged.

What once was ten thousand people and a thriving community, is now well under 100 and resembles a movie set: not surprising then that at least 4 films have used the town. Most notable would Peter Weir's "The Cars That Ate Parris" and several scenes from the story of the avante garde lifestyle of Norman Lindsay "Sirens". It was also in the eye of Brett Whiteley, who created a series of paintings here in the 1970's.

You could describe it as quaint or at the least interesting and the best way to explore it is on foot. There is the building that was the backdrop for Russell Drysdale's famous painting "The Cricketers", a sturdy two story brick building but there are many rickety shanties which were cobbled together more than a hunderd years ago and somehow remain. The Royal Hotel is a drawcard and it was one of two pubs back in the day. The other, the Gas Hotel, is now a private residence.

The Rustic Cafe is a good place for some tucker and a great coffee. Created from new in the style and materials of the village, it fits in nicely. We had our morning tea there.

Before lunch, we drove further west to the Historic Site of Hill End, managed and controlled by NSW National Park and restored since the early 1970's, about a hundred years after the village was at its height. The Royal Hotel was opened in 1872 and still does a good trade. The school, one of many brick/stone building is remarably well preserved for the 10 students who are still enrolled. The are two magnificent churches and restored butcher shops, other commercial premises and many sad homes of the miners who were the majority of the past residents. 

The former Gas Hotel

Everywhere are notice boards telling visitors what they are seeing. Much attention to detail has gone into the identification of buildings and ruins and the communication of that information to visitors.

Near the pub, the self-guided Heritage Centre uses excellent static and dynamic displays to tell the Hill End story. 

Hill End was worked over first by alluvial gold miners but after they left, bigger mines moved in to take out the substatial reef gold through undergound mining. It reaped rich rewards. 

What strikes you how well developed this town was and how commited to an ongoing life here were the people who came . The infrastructre makes that clear and there is no greater evidence than the marvellous collection of glass slide photographs taken by Beufoy Merlin and Charles Bayliss and commissioned by Otto Holtermann. The collection is the greatest photographic collection in Australia showing its far past. The State Library of NSW holds the orriginal glass plates. Holtermann was a member of the NSW Parliament and holds the record for the largest gold specimen ever found in Australia.

We shall return and stay here to explore further.

Click for today's photos

We left mid afternoon for the remaining kilometres to Bathurst, via the road south from Crudine, the Turondale Road. It was often steep - up and down - and very winding for about two thirds its length. We took our time and enjoyed the drive.

The next three days we'll be at Bathurst.