MOT Tour Day 65 - The Great Lake

Our last wilderness experience today and what a cracker to finish on.

The Great Lake

Leaving Deloraine, we embarked along the A5 road, which makes a path right over the Central Highlands. The first part of our climb was towards and eventually past Quamby Bluff (1,227m), the mountain which dominates the skyline when looking to the south from Deloraine. To give you a comparison, its only about 50m shorter than Mount Wellington in Hobart.

It didn't take long for the road to go from winding to hairpin and there were several incidences of 25kph bends stacking on the other and then the next and all the while climbing. We were able to stop and gets some reasonable shots of the mountains which were by now, close by our shoulders. It was a quick photo session, with Deloraine's 18C now down to single figures.

The turn off to Liffey Falls, regarded by many as one of Tasmania's best, slipped past intentionally as the Falls have been closed for some time owing to significant damage to the walking track.

Soon after, at about 1100m and with mountains leering down at us from more than 100m above on the right, we passed over a saddle and Pine Lake appeared on our right. We thought of parking and completing the relatively short board walk there, but it was now 7C and sleeting and it was 23C in the Forester and the random music selection was quite good. 

There was more dodging to do until we began the decent toward Breona, the first of the small settlements of mostly fishermen which are prevalent along the western and southern edges of the Great Lake. Just as the decent starts, a roadside clearing opens up a panoramic view of The Great Lake. Magnificent seems an inadequate description but perhaps to describe the effect as visceral is close. There are some times when wow becomes awe. This was one of those times. The lake stretched well to the south and so significantly east/west, that the lens of my Canon 50D could not include both edges in the same shot. It was, in turns, grey and threatening and in other sections, sparking under sunshine, as low clouds seemed to skim the surface at various point but disappear in others, leaving it to react to a sun without heat.

It was colder than our first stop but we buffered against it with coats and beanies and even when the skuds of rain came to bother us, we still keep looking. Such sights don't happen often. This one will only see today.

The summit of Quamby Bluff

Driving on, the nature of the alpine landscape and the effect wildfire burning has had on it, provided a sorry environment. There was regrowth but unlike moderate climes, everything on these plains is harder earned and many of both larger and particularly smaller trees and shrubs, haven't made a comeback. Those that have are doing so slowly. Its not barren but its doing a good impression of it.

Settlements passed by us, the largest being Doctors Point. At Liawenee, a Tasmania Police station sat lonely near the Inland Fisheries facility. Fancy being a copper out here?

We eventually made it to Miena and the Great Lake Hotel, which sits on a hill beside where the Marlborough Highway bridges to another place we have spent time at on the Tour, Derwent Bridge. It was sleeting again as we darted from the Forester and into a warm and welcoming pub and into a dining room which would be two thirds full by the time we left ninety minutes later. Our spot was in an outer section, so well heated we had to remove enough clothing to be cooler yet decent. The food was delicious and ranged from the conservatively budget-conscious to the expensive. We watched, with great admiration, a young couple playing and dining with a three year old and a bub. They were so engaged with their kids but without fuss or helicopters. Most impressive.

After the hospitality of this lovely oasis in the midst of nowhere, we returned along the outward path. We stopped at Pine Lake and I got some pictures of the rugged landscape and was saved from a foolish decision by more rain arriving just in time. Sue never left the car.

Click here for today's photos

Back at Deloraine, we parked the Forester and did a "mainy" on foot. I got a decent coffee but lousy service. We wander with no real aim, heading back to van for a cuppa.

Late in the day, we walked along the Meander in search of the most bankable platypus sighting in Tasmania. Good to the promise, the platypus stayed in the bank. With the temperature plummeting faster than my patience, it was time for tea and the sandwiches we didn't eat for lunch. Hmmm.