TOD Tour 2.0 Day 50 - Yellow Waters Cruise

A defining end to a special day is captured in this sunset photo taken on the Yellow Waters Billabong, just off the South Alligator River.

We went on this cruise with very high expectations. We'd done it before ... and before that. We'd been captivated by the beauty of Kakadu and its ferocious wildness, its diversity and its uniqueness. We'd seen creatures that took your breath away and those that wanted to take your breath away ... and we'd sat through that sunset before. Couldn't be as good again, could it? It wasn't. It was better.

I had thought that being here at the end of the dry season would be a bad thing, mostly because the water levels would be so low and habitats so shrunken but I had factored it wrong. The shrinking waterways actually concentrate birds and animals into a smaller space. Even the plants that are still flowering, are doing so prolifically. As a result, our cruise was a smorgasbord of flora and fauna.

So many birdies and everywhere you looked. Egrets are here in abundance, particularly the Cattle Egrets, who make their living picking ticks and other bugs off the soon to be culled buffalo. The most destructive force in Kakadu are these introduced hooved monsters, who destroy the water verges with their wallowing. Pigs and brumbies and the next worst in creating havoc.

In our two and a half hours we saw lots of birds but some were special: like the Azure Kingfisher, which dipped and dived into the water from its perches about a metre of the river. In between it sat there boldly displaying its striking blues and orange. A giant Sea Eagle perched on the highest branch of the highest tree in order to find a lazy fish with its razor sharp eyes and then dive down on it silently to remove it to it dinner table. A Whistling Kite, a populous member of the feathered clans in the Northern Territory was watching its nest and calling to anyone who would listen. Thousands of Brown Whistling Ducks were on either bank. A loving pair of Shiny Flycatchers were darting about the water's edge. Jacana were defying science by appearing to walk across the water from lillypad to lillypad, their actions giving an obvious explanation for their nickname of Jesus Bird. The rare Great Billed Heron, a really tall bird, stood shyly searching for treats until we got too close and then almost serenely rose into the air for a short flight to a nearby fallen tree. A Darter emerged from the river and flew to dry ground and then held its wings, wet, glossy and black, out in a crucifix pattern to dry. Its a bird that hunts in the water and yet, its feathers are not waterproof.


A Black-Necked Stork, more commonly known as a Jabiru, stood in stately array with one leg held up against the other, even in the face of an approaching crocodile.

Crocodiles.

We saw plenty of those ancient hunting machines. Virtually unchanged since the dinosaurs, they are an awesome beast. Estimates at this time of the seasons - they don't say year up here because the seasons have no fixed calendar date - have the South Alligator River populated with 100 saltwater crocodiles for every kilometre of river. Even the smallest give you pause for thought and a clear understanding of why tour operators run flat bottomed, untipable boat. We must have seen ten or eleven crocs but without doubt, one mean looking specimen which was cooling itself - they have their mouth open - on the lower bank, right beside the water, was just plain scary. More than four and a half meters long (15ft or the length of our van) and weighing over 500kg, the damned thing was monsterous from up close and up close we got. Apparently, even the biggest saltwater crocodile can propel itself from the water a distance of five metres to grab unsuspecting prey and they can do this from being completely submerged and explode from the water at about 80km/hr.


The bow of our boat got within three metres of Mr Crocodile. I didn't smile. I taught Kindergarten. I knew the protocol. I moved from unnerved, to scared, to fetch my brown corduroys.

This amazing cruise finished where we started back on the Yellow Waters Billabong ... about where this blog started, watching the sunset. We were all silent. There was just the slow plink, plink, plink of water on the aluminium hull, birds calling their regrets of incomplete tasks and others, like the Rufous Night Heron, getting started on their night rounds. It was magic really.

Click for today's photos

For Sue, the magic started earlier in the day at the Warradjan Cultural Centre, where she sat with Elder Violet Lawson, one of the custodians of the land and learned how to weave pandanas into ornamental bangles. Sue repaid her in kind, noticing her struggling with a sore back, so showing her the exercises she does. Violet would catch up with Sue the next day to say thanks and report the exercise as helping.

This place has seeped into our bones ... again.

TOD Tour 2.0 Day 49 - Into Kakadu

There are certain places on this tour that are big ticket items, either because of significance to do with family or their significance to Australia or mostly because they are just so damned amazing.

Kakadu is one of those.

We arrived at its southern entrance near Mary River Roadhouse, turning off the Stuart Highway at Pine Creek after the distraction of a cup of coffee at Mayse's. Actually the cup of coffee wasn't so much the distraction as was the collection of movie star memorabilia. Elvis and James Dean seemed to be particularly favoured and I had a chat with a life-sized model of Dean, the man who made only four movies and died when his Porsche Spider collided with a truck. He has been an icon ever since.

There was a good blaze going in the national park when we arrived at the border but then its the burning time at the moment: that time when the dry season is ending and just before the "build up" begins. Its the coolest four or five weeks of the year so mosaic burning is applied in the time honoured way of Bininj (the traditional owners of this land). We kept an eye on its location and were glad when we motored away from us.

Its a big place, something that runs many a tourist foul. From entry, it would be over 100kms until we reached out camping spot at Cooinda. The national park occupies some twenty thousand square kilometres: from the Mary River in the south to Field Island at the mouth of the South Alligator River in the north; 100km west on the Arhem Highway to the escarpments of Anhem Land itself. Those that drive in from Darwin on the hope of seeing its treasures in a day are disappointed and leave without the "Kakadu Experience". As such, its not hard to see how some chose to refer to the place as Kakadon't. This is our third visit. Their comments are invalid.

Click for today's photos

We've not stayed at the Cooinda Lodge before. We've visited and done the cruises from here but previously we stayed out in one of the many bush sites, some of which now have hot water showers and flushing dunnies. Very flash! However, they also still have billabongs with crocodiles, flies, mosquitoes and lots and lots of red dust. We'll take the easier option of power, laundry facilities and happy hour $5 schooners, for about $10 a night more.

Mutitjulu Waterhole

White Australians - Piranpa - first came into the general area of Uluru when John McDouall Stuart passed within 300km of Uluru-Kata Tjuta in 1860-62.

Ernest Giles had sighted "a high mountain" in 1872 in his attempt to force a pathway from the Overland Telegraph Line to the settlement on the Swan River (Perth). He got within a clear line of sight but was unable to pass through the salt pans and explore further.

It was William Christie Gosse who finally walked to and documented the "discovery" of the Rock, on July 19th, 1873. On the way he named the flat topped mesa to the east of the Rock, Mt Connor, after a Mr ML Connor. It was Gosse who named the Rock after Sir Henry Ayres, who was the then Premier and Chief Secretary of South Australia. Giles did eventually reach Uluru on another expedition on 9th June, 1874 and wrote eloquently of its appearance. He went on to find the pathway west and is considered an important adventurer and explorer in the white history of Australia.

Gosse, the first Piranpa to climb Uluru, went on to become Surveyor General of South Australia and died of a heart attack at the age of only 38.

Apart from one or two other expeditions which ventured to the Rock in the next twenty years after Gosse, there was very little contact by whites until the 1930's, when the possibility of pastoral leases was explored.

Two factors combined to do what no other combination of events in 20 000 years had done i.e. drive Anangu away from their traditional life at Uluru. A devastating drought hit the area in the early thirties and many perished owing to the lack of water and food. As if this was not hard enough, the growing incidence of police persecution was also having a negative affect on the relationship between Anangu and Piranpa.

The final act involved Paddy Uluru and his brother, who both had powerful links with the area, as shown by their last name. With others, they combined to kill and eat a steer on a property near Mt Connor. This was a growing problem in the relationship between white and black, as Anangu did not understand the concept of specific ownership of the animals to one man and often killed sheep or cattle when hungry. The fact these introduced beasts were reducing the native food population with their grazing, seemed to be something Piranpa were oblivious to.

Pursued by a certain Sgt McKinnon, the men returned in fear to Uluru and hid in a cave near Mutitjulu Waterhole, where Paddy's brother was shot and killed by Sgt McKinnon. The men then continued on foot, escaping under cover of darkness and hopping from one spinifex plant to the other so as to not leave tracks. Paddy Uluru took a wide circular path to the south and hid out on a mission, whilst most of the others did similar things in other parts of the country.

Anangu were terrified their lives meant so little to a supposed trusted man such as Sgt McKinnon and all of the people of Uluru and Kata Tjutafled to nearby missions and gave up their traditional lives. It was not until thirty years later that some, such as Paddy Uluru made the first tentative steps to return. Paddy was to become the driving force behind the land rights movement and the submissions he made before a parliamentary enquiry instigated by Prime Minister Gough Whttlam in 1973, led to a recommendation that ownership be passed back to the traditional owners, that they have a majority say in the management of the land and that tourist accommodation be moved away from the Rock.

In 1983, Prime Minister Bob Hawke intervened in what had become a long running and acrimonious debate with the Northern Territory Government and promised the land would handed back under the guidelines made in the parliamentary enquiry of ten years earlier. A little more than two years later, in a special ceremony at the base of Uluru, Sir Ninian Stephen handed title of Uluru back to Anangu. This emotional ceremony is remembered as Handback and on the 26th October, 1995, the opening of a new Cultural Centre at Uluru will mark the tenth anniversary.

The morning was spent in pursuit of mundane school matters: a task which seemed so trivial in comparison to the things around us, but this was not an attitude we intended to convey to the children.

As the lunch bell sounded, we were on the road for Mutitjulu Waterhole, where we spent a peaceful 45 minutes consuming our sandwiches and drinking in the atmosphere. We concluded our self-directed activities with a slow drive around the base of the rock, in an opposite direction to that which we had walked on the previous day.

By 3:00 pm, we had returned to Mutitjulu Waterhole to meet with Rupert and Peter, two Anangu members of the M u t i t j u l u community who were part of the Trainee Ranger Program. For the following ninety minutes, they led us through the area around the waterhole, sharing their traditional ways and stories with us. The Anangu do not agree with the Piranpa term "Dreaming" or "Dreamtime", as they feel these terms create an image in the mind of Piranpa that the things they talk of did not happen. Instead they talk of and are guided by the Tjukurpa. These are things which did happen and can be seen on the rock and in the land.

The story we heard this particular afternoon was of the Kuniya Tjukurpa or Woma python story.

Kuniya was a powerful Woma python who was gathering eggs one day when she heard her nephew calling for help, in pain. He had been struck down and wounded by the spear of Liru, the poisonous snake. She went to his aid and seeing him injured and Liru standing over him, she became very angry and smeared red dust all over her chest in preparation to fight. Kuniya killed Liru and then retrieved her wounded nephew and took him into the rock above the waterhole, where she lives today. She changed into a powerful Rainbow Serpent and watches over the waterhole.

When Anangu need water, an elder will climb up on the Rock and shout for water and Kuniya will send it. Hence, the waterhole never completely dries up. The shape of the rock faces, splits in the rock, holes, crevices and marks all bear out this story and were shown to us. The story was retold faithfully and with self-depreciaing humour by two keen, interesting men who wanted so much for this group of Piranpa to understand and appreciate their ways.

It was moving and impressive and we gained great joy from their time with us.

The only disturbing incident was when an ignorant woman tried to video tape part of the talk. The Anangu have made it clear they do not wish to be photographed or recorded on film or video tape. Rupert ran from her sight and shook his head and hands in horror and Peter turned his head and tried to ask her to stop. She denied filming them, but no one believed her. What happened next reaffirmed my faith in human nature. A retired gentleman who, with his wife, had attended a morning tour with Rupert and Peter, stepped up and stood close to Peter and between him and the lady with the video camera, all the while checking over his shoulder to ensure he was blocking her line of site!

We completed our day with another viewing of the sunset on Uluru - this time marred by cloud cover
on the western horizon and a yuppy couple beside us ! She adorned the bonnet of the hire car, lying back in a supposedly alluring state of repose, sipping on a glass of champagne, while he boasted of his work on the stock exchange. Perhaps someone should have told them they were not the attraction!

All was not lost, however, as we got some attractive shots of the sunset.

Chris again cooked tea and after showers and settling the children into their beds, Sue and I had a very interesting and most satisfying review of the day. Our discussion had as a theme, our thoughts on what we could do when we return to our "normal way of life" to enhance the possibility of unity between black and white. Our greatest fear is, there is a tale to be told, but because of problems on both sides of the racial fence, it is not being heard.

Nourlangie Rock/Anbangbang Billabong & Shelter

Nourlangie Rock

With a long day planned, we were up and about early and had driven to our first and most difficult walk of the day, ready to take our first steps by 8:15 am.

All of our walking, on this our last day in Kakadu, was to be in the vicinity of Nourlangie Rock and this first walk of 3.5 km was to an art site on the northern side of the Rock, called the Nanguluwur Gallery. It was typical of the walks we had done in the park, in that it was well marked, of an easy grade and not long. Despite this, we were again dismayed to find the most erroneous and ridiculous remarks in the visitors book at the art site. I say again, I would not invite the comments of morons who obviously know nothing of bushwalking or the culture which lias produced the dramatic art work on display here.

Once our anger subsided, we were able to soak up the atmosphere of this quiet, gentle place. A definite additional advantage of our early starts - apart from heat avoidance - was crowd avoidance and this morning was another fine example. As the only people at this ancient shelter, we not only had free run of the place to photograph from any angle and look at what we wanted unencumbered, we were also able toappreciate the atmosphere.

The paintings were of of me same extraordinary quality as those we had seen at Ubirr, but with a greater variety of subjects, there was some "contact art", with the drawing of a sailing ship very obvious, but also some harder to spot drawings of white men. Again, there were fish and goannas and other food sources painted in the relatively modem X-ray style which had been so impressive at Ubirr. Here, however, there was also some much older work. Life sized paintings of kangaroo were of a style which dated them as being seriously old - 15 000 years plus - and their obscured nature also indicated they had been painted over several times.

Contact art, Nanguluwur Gallery

Set under a huge rock overhang, this was also a warm shelter in the colder former climate which existed thousands of years ago, when the coast was much closer to this area. The northerly aspect would have made it a very pleasant place to be in the days when they did have winter here, rather than "the dry".

From this special place, we moved closer to the Anbangbang area of Nourlangie Rock . The aborigines called the rock Nawurlandja, with higher sections called Burrunggui and the lower sections called Anbangbang. Opposite Nourlangie Rock is a rocky outlier of tilted sandstone - Nawurlandja Lookout - which allows the climber the opportunity of looking east over Anbangbang Billabong, Nourlangie Rock and the magnificent Arnhem Land Escarpment. The sandstone top layers have been greatly eroded, exposing massive layers of conglomerate, which are evidence of a time when the water ran very quickly over the watery bed which caused these deposits.

Sitting on this exposed tilted plate and facing the incredible natural beauty which lay before our eyes to the east, I found myself being forced to sort through a mental catalogue of the best views I have seen. Certainly this was one of them and comparable or better than the ones I had always rated the highest: Grand High Tops at Warrumbungle NP; Mt Abrupt at Gariwerd NP (Grampians); and Middle Brother Mountain, near Laurieton.

The great line of escarpment man ran in horizontal simplicity roughly north to south; the sudden and almost violent imposition of Nourlangie in the foreground; the greens and blues of Anbangbang Billabong and the occasional flashes of colour as birds rose and then settled; the sea of paler greens which were the woodland eucalypts; the blue of the sky which met them all when they had exhausted their vertical their range; and the smoke haze that clung to the base of the cliffs, gathered there from all over the park by the winds - a reminder it was the end of the "burning time".

Whilst I can't say it was the greatest view I have ever seen, I know it will take it's place among the very upper echelon in my treasured memories.

Anbangbang Billabong

Near our vantage point, a large hole which had been caused by a weakness in the sandstone and the action of wind and water, made a mini cauldron perhaps five metres across and of similar depth. The children and Sue climbed down into it and were fascinated by the nature of it.

Walking down off the lookout - motivated by invading tourists - we discovered some rock art, tucked away in a little nook. It was like having your own private showing of a precious art work. Sue attempted to share this discovery with a passing tourist, but the language barrier and the desire of the newcomer to reach the top abrogated any chance she might stop and look at the paintings.

We returned to the car park for our packs and made our way to Anbangbang Billabong, for lunch (pronounced un-bung-bung).

This is certainly the best known of the billabongs in the park and probably the most visited. The fact
another access point - other than the walking track we were using - brings cars right to its edge, probably has a lot to do with it. Shrunken to half it's "wet" size, it was never the less spectacular, as the bird life was now contracted to a smaller area and therefore more concentrated. The walking track circles the billabong and we walked halfway around before finding a shady perch to consume our sandwiches and muesli bars.

Whilst we were watching the birds, we were lucky enough to have a ranger wander past. Ranger Sharon Hinton was on a break and had come down to the billabong to capture some of the birds on film. A relative newcomer to the park (April 95) she originally came from Victoria, where she worked at Gariwerd NP. This was a golden opportunity to ask the many questions which had formulated during our six days in Kakadu, in our own private session with a park ranger and it was a chance we relished. It transpired we shared many of the views held by the park staff: tourists as opposed to travellers; traditional owners and their importance to what the park is all about; visitor's books; wild life; and many other issues. We were grateful for her candour, information and company and bid her farewell with the utmost of thanks.

One interesting tidbit we gleaned, was the discovery of a tourist's body very near to a walking track we had completed a few days earlier at Ubirr. It was thought the person left the track and either became disoriented, distressed or was in need of water. What ever the cause, he must have collapsed and was not found for some months. By men, most of what remained was bones, a passport and several Nikon cameras.

Our final walk and visit for the day, was the wonderful rock art and former living quarters at Anbangbang Shelter.

This was a brilliant 1.5 km walk, which included passing through a natural shelter in the massive fallen sandstone boulders, which had been a home for aborigines for at least fifteen thousand years. The evidence for this comes from an archaeological dig done in the shelter, which unearthed stones tools and other artifacts from that period and right through to the last thirty years. We attended an excellent talk In this very cool, peaceful place, given by Ranger Dave Bowe. During his thirty minute talk, he spoke of the history of use of the shelter and passed around a number of stone tools found here during the archaeological dig. We were able to examine, at first hand, stone axe heads, spear tips, cutting tools and examples of the foods and berries which would have been eaten as the aborigines clustered together in here, away from the oppressive heat of the day or the driving rain.
Further into the walk, we also saw some old and new rock art: as detailed and as breath-taking as that
which we had seen at Ubirr.

The most striking of the very detailed X-ray style art was the work of "Barramundi Charlie" or Nayomboimi who worked for many years for Europeans and returned to his ancestral grounds shortly before his death in 1964 to paint these designs. He was aware of his imminent passing and wanted to record many of the stories and lore of his people, rather than have them lost. One particular wall of his work is probably the most talked about and photographed rock art at Kakadu. The clarity of the brush work and the importance of the stories combine to create stunning images which have the same moving affect as any of the great art works from white Australia's heritage.

Here was Namarrgon, The Lightning Man, and his wife Barrkinj. Namarrgon has lightning joining his head and feet and garramalg (stone axes) can be seen attached to his head, elbows and knees. It is these he strikes against the ground and clouds to create lightning and thunder. Namarrgon and Barrkinj produce offspring each year which herald the commencement of the storms of the wet. These are Aldjurr, the striking blue and orange grasshoppers which only appear at Kakadu and were observed by Ludwig Lelchhardt in his travels through this area. Consequently, they are known by white Australia as Leichhardt's Grasshopper.

Namondjok

At the top of this wall, Namondjok, a very dangerous spirit, is painted in stark detail. A feature of this painting is the exaggerated size of his penis and testicles - something very rare tn the art work of this area. It would seem this is associated with his deeds as a human, as Namondjok had made love to his sister: something very much taboo in most cultures. Both were punished heavily by their tribe, with Namondjok being thrown into the fire to die. His concubine plucked a feather from his head and threw it into the rock face of the Arnhem Land escarpment, where it can be seen today as a lone rock, silhouetted against the sky. The tribe left him in the burning coals, presuming his death. However, Namondjok crawled from the fire and dragged himself to the river, where he turned into Ginji, the saltwater crocodile. The bumps on his back are the blisters from the fire.

The painting is placed here, because the original offence is said to have happened on the rock ledge above.

It is the association of every painting to a story which teaches, warns, informs or entertains, that underlines the value which can be placed on these amazing works of art. Before coming to Kakadu, this was something unknown to me, but now, standing before these strong cultural signposts, I felt an awe I have experienced on few occasions.

Mind you, some of the gloss was taken away by the rudeness of the French tourists who were busy
jockeying for position and sniggering at the "extreme primitive nature of the art work on show". Someone should blow France up !

We left the Nourlangie Rock area, exhausted but thrilled by what we had seen and experienced throughout the day and returned to camp for ablutions and a good night's sleep.

The Kakadu Experience had been one which we had anticipated for so long. We had been concerned we might feel an anticlimax when it actually happened. However, the physical and spiritual beauty of this place is such that no such disappointment is possible to anyone with an open heart and mind.. In our journey north/tie had heard conflicting reports from tourists, referring to the place as "Kakadon't" etc. and saying it was just another place to go. Many rated Litchfield NP as a superior park. This form of negative comment is hard to understand or justify and our conclusion was these people felt threatened or did not understand the aboriginality of this place. In most cases, their comments included a diatribe against the traditional owners, so this could well have been the case.

From our point of view, this is a case study of what can be achieved when "whitefellas" listen to and work in partnership with "blackfellas". Here, ownership is recognised and therefore, usage of the park is enhanced by the goodwill and willingness to share of the owners.

Anbangbang Shelter

The ranger staff are knowledgeable and informed and all share an empathy with the local aboriginals:
developed in talking with them, formally and informally. The facilities are excellent and appropriate for what you should expect in a well managed NP. All types of accommodation are available for all types of people, which leads me to the down side of our visit. Too often - visitor's books, lookouts. Visitor's Centre - we experienced morons who should never come to such a place. They have no intention of recognising the significance of the owners or their culture and generally, are ill-prepared for walking and enjoying any nature they can't drive their car to. It is a pity some form of screening test can't prevent them from coming here, because it is unlikely the experience will change them. Their self-indulgence is the antithesis of what this place is on about.

The scenery is fantastic - certainly on a par with the best we have seen - and we know we will need to
revisit. When doing so, it will be at a different time of year, so we can experience another part of the yearly cycle of life in tlie park. The indigenous people of Kakadu, do not recognise the four seasons we from temperate climates know so well. Whilst most Europeans would identify two seasons here - wet and dry - the aboriginals identify six seasons...

Gunumeleng (October-December)
The pre-monsoon season of hot weather which becomes more and more humid. Along the creeks, the air is heavy with the scent of blossoming paperbark trees which attract colonies of feeding fruit bats in the evening. Thunderstorms build in the afternoons and scattered showers bring a tinge of green to the parched earth. As the streams begin to run, "old water" washes into the permanent billabongs from stagnating pool, causing localised fish kills. Waterbirds disperse as surface water and new growth becomes more widespread. Barramundi move out of the water holes and downstream to the estuaries. It is time for people to move camp from the floodplaln, to shelter from violent storms of the wet season.
Gudjeuk (January-March)
The time of violent thunderstorms, heavy rain and flooding. Heat and humidity generates an explosion of plant and animal life. Magpie geese nest among the sedgelands. It is egg gathering time. Flooding may cause goannas, snakes and possums to seek refuge in the trees, where they are easily caught.
Banggereng (April)
Most plant are fruiting and animals are caring or their young. Expanses of water recede and streams clear. Violent storms flatten the two metre high spear grass; hence the name "knock 'em down season".
Yekke (April-June)
Early morning mists hang low over the plains and waterholes. The shallow wetlands and billabongs are carpeted with waterlilies. Drying winds signal it is time to commence burning the bush in patches to "clean" the country and to encourage new growth for grazing animals. Early season fires are insurance against destructive fires in the hotter months. Eucalyptus miniata begins to flower and when flowering ceases by early August, fires are usually no longer lit.
Wurrgeng (June- July)
The cold weather time with low humidity, days of 30 degrees C and nights as low as 17. Creeks cease to flow and floodplains quickly dry out. Magpie geese, fat and heavy after weeks of feeding, crowd the diminishing billabongs with a myriad of other waterbirds. Burning continues, dampened by the dew at night. By day, the birds of prey patrol the fire lines as insects and other small animals escape the flames.
Gurrung (July-October)
Windless and hot, the land seemingly lays dormant. It Is still 'goose time' but also a time to hunt file snakes and long necked turtles. Sea turtles lay their eggs on the sandy beach of Field Island, where goannas rob the occasional nest. White-breasted wood swallows arrive as thunderheads build again with the return of Gunumeleng.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

We felt honoured the four tribes who have ownership of the park had shared their home with us and in listening to their stories, reading their words and viewing their art work, we hope to honour them by our acceptance of its immense value.

Bubba Wetlands/Mirray Lookout/Mardugal Billabong

Food prep for the day - Sarah & Sue

VJ50 Day began early, with a 5 km walk around the Bubba Wetlands (pronounced Booba as in "look"), commencing at 7:45 am. No sign of the Swedes surfacing when we left camp. Although, a perspective on our pride in an early start, is to report that the Army had left an hour before us !

Bubba Wetlands are based on a large billabong typical of the type seen in the park. The walk circumnavigates the billabong from a seemingly ridiculous distance at this time of the year. Despite this, there was much to see.

Again we had a great variety of bird life on offer in the receding waters of the billabong. We also caught sight of Pacific Black Ducks, which we had been told were in the park, but were not present at Yellow Waters.

It was pleasant, easy walking and we were enjoying an early morning tea break beside one of the deeper sections, when I rose the alarm and moved the group off at great speed, believing I had seen a lurking "saltie". The false alarm - caused by a lazy Grunterfish sliding along the surface - was the focal point of some jokes from the children, until their mother and my faithful wife, thanked me for being alert and keeping us safe. The sniggers from the children were at least driven behind raised palms !

It was back to the tent for a smattering of school work and some lunch before setting out for the afternoon's activities. During this break time, I also managed to wet the fishing line in the camp side billabong, with Sarah as my second set of eyes, in case of any adventurous "salties". No bites, no fish ... but... Sarah did manage to plait some Pandanas fronds in the manner demonstrated in video footage at the Cultural Centre the day before. I'm not sure how much "croc spotting" she was doing !

Bubba wetlands

Our afternoon started with a walk to the top of the Mirray Lookout, located a few kilometres from our camp. This is a small pimple on the plain which affords a potentially three hundred and sixty degree view, after a climb of less than a kilometre to a height one hundred and twenty metres above the car park. I say potentially, because - as is pointed out so rudely in the visitors book at the base of the walk - there are quite a few trees which obscure about ninety degrees of the view completely and the remainder, partially. However, it was not our belief this ruined the effect of the view from the lookout, nor did it make the walk unworthy. We certainly did not subscribe to the chainsaw solution suggested in the visitor's book by several recent guests. To the designer label set, who fly into Darwin, drive their hired vehicles to the sights and then walk them in sandals and carry no water,  hese are impossible walks. Personally, I wouldn't give them the opportunity of making a comment by way of a visitors book. If they feel so strongly, let them contact the park office or seek out a ranger !

The track had been undergoing repairs thanks to the army engineers we had shared camp with the
previous evening and it should be noted, they had done a damn fine job.

We rested, took some appropriate video and still shots from our vantage point and generally enjoyed the view. During this time, Sue made a new friend: a middle aged woman who took a liking to her and wouldn't stop talking. She had worked in the Kimberleys, as part of the support structure for an aboriginal community. Following us down the hill, her life story continued unabated, with Sue the latest custodian.

Leaving this new and not entirely wanted acquaintance in our wake, we headed further south, to Mardugal Billabong and camping area. At one stage, this was to be our destination and base camp, as we explored the southern section of the park.

Upon arrival and Inspection of the facilities, we soon reached the conclusion we had chosen wisely in
selecting Muirella Park. Not only did you have to boil the water at Mardugal, but there were many more people in the camp. Organised in the more traditional "circle the wagons" manner, all guests in the camping area were equally aware of each other's presence. This was not the case at our camp, as the elongated nature of the grounds created a greater spread of the fewer guests.

Mardugal Billabong

A short walk leaves the camping ground and takes you to a picnic area on the edge of the billabong,  although the walk virtually follows the billabong all of the way along its 500 metre length. This was our least enjoyable walk at Kakadu, as it seemed pointless and showed no more of the billabong than a walk to the adjacent boat ramp would have. Further, we didn't sight any crocs - a first for any of the larger water ways we had visited - and it was getting late in the day. The billabong is a further part of the Jim Jim/Yellow Waters system.

We returned to camp for dinner, showers - much hot water as there were very few left in the campgrounds - and meeting new arrivals.

There are many funny things about travelling, but perhaps the best are the rituals associated with the
greeting of new members to a camp site. This is especially so if you have been in the site for a few nights. It becomes your "responsibility" to welcome the newcomers and pass on to them the local "inside info". On this occasion, it was a retired couple who were parked between us and the ablutions block and were therefore unavoidable. After initial pleasantries before the sun fell, a full scale discussion ensued as I returned from washing the dishes. This discussion went so long as to have Sue come looking for me - although she had a fair idea where I was. It was becoming apparent, the children's jibes about me taking lessons from Pa in the art of talking, could perhaps have some basis in truth.

Sam, Sarah & Chris
at Margugal

In the space of 90 minutes, we discussed:
* where we had been;
* where they had been;
* our backgrounds;
* my job;
* education in general;
* the future;
* and any other major problems we felt we could solve in our eventual four-way talk.

They were a nice couple - Ian and Elizabeth - and had much to say about the future generation. Most of it was informed (which means I agreed with it!) and well considered (which means I agreed with it a lot!).

TODAY'S PHOTOS

Bite ridden from the over-friendly mosquitoes, we retired to our tent and the safety of netting and Mozzie Coils. After lights out, our canine mate returned to see if there was anything left on offer in our fireplace. He wandered restlessly back and forward and eventually left disappointed.

Yellow Waters Sunrise Cruise

Our sunrise cruise required a 6:45 am dock departure time, in order we might catch this wonder as it occurred over the still and peaceful water of the billabong. To meet this deadline, we had a 5:30 am wake up, as we had to eat and then complete the 30 minute drive to Yellow Waters. As our only alarm was the small device on my wrist watch, both Sue and I were concerned we would sleep through it and miss our cruise. Therefore, independently, we tossed and turned for most of the night waiting for the tiny beeping sounds which would give us permission to leap from our air mattress and behave like children on Christmas morning.

When the alarm finally rang, the adults dragged themselves up, exhausted from a vigil which had lasted almost all night and one they had only failed to keep for the last two hours of deep sleep. The children were, however, like ... children ... on Christmas morning. Despite the great incompatibility of our dispositions owing to our lack of faith in ourselves, we managed to drag ourselves into the car and off to Yellow Waters.

By the time we arrived "dock side", we were all sharing the infectious excitement started by the children and we boarded the shallow-draft boats with great expectation.

To say we were not disappointed would be among the great understatements of our time ! This was the bestof all experiences.

After introductions to our guide - Nick - and a few safety rules, we slowly made our way out of the home lagoon under the watchful eye of a sea eagle. Turning, we caught the first glimpse of the sun as it rose from behind the Arnhem Land escarpment and began its daily supply of warmth and light. These first rays spread like probing fingers across the watery landscape, finding the inhabitants stirring after their twelve hours of darkness. Some, like the Tawny Frogmouth and the Night Heron, were preparing for sleep, after a night on the hustings. Most were dressing for the day and on the lookout for any early catch which might be available.

Our boat wended its way along the narrow pathway still open for traffic, as we were now in the fifth month since the passing of the wet season. Our luck was that the last wet had been a big one and there was still substantial water In the system. Along the edges of the billabongs were native bamboo and mangroves, woven into a sometimes thick tangle of foliage which would suddenly give way to reveal a shallow wetland beyond and a watery plain of picnicking Egrets, Magpie Geese, Ibis, Whistling Ducks, Brolgas and the famed Jabiru. Swimming in the relative safety of these shallow waters were Pygmy Geese, Rahjah Shellducks (orBurdikan Ducks) and the Plumed Whistling Ducks.

In the branches beside the deeper part of the billabongs we trafficked, Forest Kingfishers sat with assured authority. A close and more colourful relative, the Azure Kingfisher, kept a closer line to the trees, but occasionally popped down to the water surface to scoop a swift drink. A Shining Flycatcher was more game and
was keen to show off his flying skills among the narrow passages the branches make. Bar Chested Doves walked carefully along the bank, with a watchful eye on the still, dark water for any evil which might lurk there.

Darters could be seen drying their wings in the crazy, spread out manner which makes them look just a little silly. This drying routine is one of those strange quirks of nature. The darter lacks the natural oil in its feathers that prevents them becoming water logged and after diving to spear Its prey in the water and then consuming it with a toss of the head, it must assume this wings-spread position to dry off.

Flying above, with watchful eyes on any chance for a quick and easy feed, Whistling Kites gilded with relative ease In the early morning breeze which rushed ahead of the warming air. In all, we were able to identify 19 different species of birds in two short hours.

The return journey coincided with the early daytime activities of the "salties" and we were able to observe three fair sized beasts getting under way for the day. One chap was very cooperative In swimming up and back past our boat, but no one felt compelled to pat him in order to say thanks.

Throughout this two hours of uninterrupted nature, we were not only entertained by what was outside the boat, but were kept informed by our knowledgeable guide Nick. His vast data bank of information about the birds, plants, trees, fish etc was impressive in its breadth, but even more appreciated because of the manner of his delivery.

From this high, we felt the rest of the day might well be a letdown. However, we could not have been more wrong, as our next port of call was the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. The five of us have spent many happy hours looking through aboriginal cultural centres across a variety of tribal areas, but I have never seen one which combined new and old In such a clever way, to tell an important story. On one hand there were original stone tools and artifacts. Nearby, a computer database - with touch sensitive screens - explained the complicated kinship system. Movement sensors activated thunder and lightning sequences as you walked through an alcove showing the legend of Narmarrgon, The Lightning Man. Video images were projected onto angled mirrors which only gave you a view when you stood in certain positions.

Despite all of this clever planning and use of innovative displays, it was the words of the people recorded on the walls, which left the indelible impression. The heart rending stories of separation from family members; the fear of the elders that It would all be lost; the sadness at the loss of their culture. It was poignant stuff.

We emerged scathed, but not chastened; saddened but uplifted. It was, a truly cultural experience. The adjoining art gallery contained some outstanding art works, ranging from decorated didjeridoos, bark and paper paintings, clothing and decorated materials. It was all of such quality and told such rich stories, that an open cheque book was never so desired by Sue and I.

From this peak, it was back to camp for lunch and the boredom of school work ... ho, hum !

Late In the afternoon, we were joined in camp by twenty members of an engineers company attached to K95. These guys had been working to repair walking tracks in Kakadu as a pay off for the use of the park. It transpired they were a combination of "home force" and "Orangelanders" and had been working on a nearby lookout track. It was estimated they had completed work which would have taken the rangers six months, in the space of the previous week.

I spoke with a couple of them during the early evening and following morning and you couldn't help but feel sorry for them in terms of the way the press in the Top End had dealt with them during the past few weeks. There had been a constant tirade against the exercise in general and the soldiers in particular. It was nothing they had done wrong while being in the Top End, just the fact they were here. It would appear many residents have short memories and don't appreciate what was done 50 years ago to defend them. Of course, they could well argue the military build up then, had caused much of their grief by making them a target for the Japanese.

You could dispute the big issues at great length, but the Individual soldier should not be the butt of the derision we had seen. Come a crisis, it would be these same troops who would be expected to answer the call and not the armchair cnttcs, who had been given the luxury of comment from the safety of their soft chairs, by the predecessors of our current soldiers.

Our other neighbours for the evening were a Swedish trio who were travelling through the Top End at a great rate of knots. When they arrived, they were about to set up in the midst of where the army had
indicated they were encamping, so I advised them to move. The two girls were happy to stay, but the bloke was not so keen. We offered them the usual sharing arrangements about our fireplace etc., but they kept fairly much to themselves.

However, about 9:00 pm, Sue and I spotted a Sugar Glider in a nearby tree and before a minute had passed, Sue was over at their camp offering my services as a night guide to the wild creatures of Kakadu ! There ensued a discussion about where they had been, what they had seen and what they thought of Australia. Needless to say, they were impressed, but on the basis of the time scale they indicated and the length of their sleep-in the next morning, it was a surprise they had seen anything! I was at my helpful best, explaining the dangers of drop bears and funnel-back spiders and yowies.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

We crashed, after a long but enjoyable day, but not before a late night visit from Mr Dingo. He wandered Into camp around half past ten and sniffed about until he found some uneaten jaffles in thefireplace. Very nervously -fear of humans and hot coals - he picked his way into the fireplace and exhumed the abandoned and burnt offerings.

It was then I remembered I hadn't warned the Swedes about our fearsome native dog, known to drag humans from their tents ...

Muirella Park

Another moving day and despite the shorter distance to travel, we still had to complete a full pack. We again resisted the urge to pre-pack, feeling we should go with the positive manner in which we worked at Darwin. Mission was accomplished in a wholly reasonable time and we were soon on the road south, to Jabiru.

This small town services the park and its guests, as well as providing for the Ranger Uranium Mine to the east. It is a typical "modern town" with the sort of street design which seems to take you around in circles and back to where you just came from. However, it is clean and has enough of what is needed, even if at much higher prices. The pricing aspect was interesting. The supermarket was oddly priced, with many items being well below other prices In comparable sized supermarkets we had used "en route". However, there were great inconsistencies, as other items were enormously inflated beyond anything you could vaguely be called reasonable.

I made my weekly call to our office manager and checked out how our affairs were being managed. After settling a few minor matters and being reminded by Art we would eventually have to turn for home, it was time to move on.

With fuel for people, vehicle and gas bottles replenished, it was off to Muirella Park, about 40 kms south of Jabiru. It is one of four tent and caravan sites in the park which have solar showers and flushing toilets. Muirella Park is set beside Djurdja Billabong, which is part of the Nourlangie Creek system feeding the South Alligator River. It is a beautiful, tree-lined, elongated water hole containing fantastically clear water and sandy banks. Unfortunately, as much as human beings like the look of the water, "salties" also share this admiration. As they make this their home and they have a nasty habit of consuming visitors to their habitat, there is no swimming here !

The area beside the billabong has been rehabilitated to form a camping area, but was originally cleared and used as an airstrip. Consequently, the camping area is very long and narrow and Is surrounded by a one way bitumen road. As with all areas of this type at Kakadu, there are designated areas for caravans - with and without generators - and campers.

The airstrip was active in the 1950's, when two blokes set up a hunting lodge called "Muirella Park" and flew hunters in during the wet because the roads were impassable. The work in rehabilitating the area is impressive, with naturally occurring species providing shade and wind breaks being planted .
The camping area has a permanent manager ...at least, he is permanent for the dry or busy season. It is his job to collect camping fees, clean the toilets and generally make sure the needs of users are met. We were impressed by his friendliness and general caring manner during our stay, which was to extend to four nights.

Our record in croc spotting continued, with further proof that "salties" frequented the billabong coming during our driving tour of the campground, in search of a site.

After set up and lunch, we drove the 25 kms to Yellow Waters and the Cooinda Resort Lodge. There are three resort lodges placed strategically about Kakadu, catering for the upper end of the tourist market, who require their beds to be made for them and their toilet in an adjoining room. We booked a two hour, sunrise cruise for the following morning - something we had been told was a must for any visitor to the park and then went to the Yellow Waters Billabong, itself.

Yellow Waters is a series of large billabongs which contract, like all water ways in the park during the dry season, after flowing in wide, open spaces during the wet. It is part of the Jim Jim Creek system and also feeds into the South Alligator River. As we were to explore it on the water during our cruise, our one kilometre walk along an elevated board walk was an excellent taste of what was to come.

You are struck immediately by the great beauty of the near still water, as it reflects the Narrow Leaved Paperbark trees and Pandanas Palms. As this short but pretty walk unfolds, the audacious winged inhabitants of this watery area display themselves without apparent fear of the large bipeds which stand, staring in their direction. Egrets slowly picked their way through the shallow water and a Forest Kingfisher darted and dived past us. In the water, Grunters could be clearly seen gleaning a feed among the reeds and me supports for the board walk structure. On the far bank, croc number four was spotted, lying inauspiciously in the mud and reeds and resting his two and a half metre body.

With our appetite whetted, we returned to camp for an early night, as we had an equally early morning ahead of us, if we were to be at Yellow Waters in time for the cruise.

Bardedjilidji Walk & Visitor's Centre

Catfish Creek (Mawoenewoene)

The third of the walks in the Ubirr locality had evaded us yesterday and it was with fresh resolve andnew vigour, we set out in the morning to knock this last walk over. Set along the wet season flood plain of both the East Alligator River and its tributary, Mawoenewoene (Catfish Creek), the Bardedjilidji Walk was an easy 2.5 km stroll through layered sandstone stacks which resembled so many pancakes awaiting lemon and sugar.

The stacks varied in height from the little two metre mounds to the taller and connected thirty metre cliffs. Because of the proximity to the water courses and the effect of falling rain along the jointed nature of this sandstone, we also discovered many caves which had previously been used as shelters. An amazing aspect of this walk, was the viewing of some exquisite rock art which was both unheralded and unprotected from either waterflow or the public. This amazed and concerned us and despite reference to the ranger in the Visitor's Centre later in the day, there seemed no explanation.

The walk takes you through very narrow canyons of tumbled sandstone, all of which has fallen in large, flat slabs. It was in this section poor old Sam copped a large dose of Green Ant infestation. He had been standing quietly, waiting for me to complete taping some of the topography and in the process, had stood too close to a tree containing several Green Ant nests. The nests are made from the leaves of the paperbark tree whilst they still hang in place on the young trees. They bind them together in a ball shape, using some sort of web they extract from their bodies.

After setting out again - following the cessation of my taping - he suddenly started gyrating and screaming that he was under attack. He was stripped where he stood and the poor kid was covered with the small, scrambling ants with the bright green abdomen, which are so prevalent in the Top End. We brushed and flicked and removed the little beggars before too many of them were able to bite him, but even so, he picked up a few bites. Consoled, he was able to continue, but it was a salient reminder to him, that there was more than crocodiles to be worried about in this wild territory.

About two thirds of the way through this walk, we branched off onto the board walk which leads to the longer Rock Holes Walk. This 200 metre section took us across a narrow section of Catfish Creek and some beautiful water lilies. With a watchful eye on any large creatures which might be hungry, we took some nice visual records of these pretty plants.

We completed the the walk and bundled ourselves into the car for the drive to Jabiru and a tour of the
Visitor's Centre, which had come highly recommended. The design was excellent, moulding into the bush in true Frank Lloyd Wright style. The entire building was elevated and gave the impression of being part of a board walk. There were excellent displays which gave a record of the various histories of the park, including geological, animal and cultural. Current information about the state of park roads, attractions and water courses is displayed and is valuable in aiding tourists in their effective planning of good park use. We watched two excellent audio-visual displays of a different nature.

The first, was a video called "The Big Wet": an example of an unusually wet season and the affect it has on the animal inhabitants of the park. It was one of five videos running almost continuously throughout the day in a comfortable theatrete. Along from this is a slide presentation with a difference. There are seven screens in a 360 degree panorama surrounding the viewer. Although there are ample places to lean in this smallish theatrete, there are no seats and the slide presentation of 25 minutes was just the right length. The introduction was given by a traditional owner of the park and the topic of the slides was the changing face of the park as the cycle of each year rotates. The quality of the slides was of the highest imaginable standard and you found yourself enthralled by each change in each screen and, ultimately, your ability to keep up with them. The soundtrack was equally impressive, as the surround-sound audio conveyed the calls of the bird life, the threat of an oncoming storm and the background sound clutter that is inevitable in such a rich natural environment. We were immersed in images and sounds, emerging saturated by beauty and wonder.

We returned to camp, all happy the reputation of the Visitor's Centre was an accurate one.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

Our afternoon belonged to school work-finally. Mathematics, Japanese and English were on the menu and after the break our recalcitrance had caused, it was difficult to get started. However, after warming up, the children - if not the parents - were able to endure the necessary work with a smile and even some satisfaction.

Forgoing the sunset at Ubirr, we opted for a rare campfire, jaffles and some family chat. This went well and we slept blissfully.

AUC 1995 - Kakadu NP (NT)

Darwin to Kakadu (NT)
Jabiru (Arnhem Highway) 283 kms

A moving day - in more ways than one - began at 7:00 am with a full pack up. Sue and I had declined the opportunity of a pre-pack, as we didn't have far to drive, Sue was tired and I had a bit of writing to do to catch up in my journal. What ever the reasons for our lack of a pre-pack, it accounted for nought in consideration of the smoothness with which we all worked. There was not a word said in anger, many said in jest and each of us seemed to gel collaboratively in a way which was hither-to unknown.

The result was a clean, happy pack up which was completed in the comfortable time of two hours from waking to driving away. In this, Chris and I had showers and we all ate breakfast!

One of the four most anticipated chapters of our trip would unfold today, with our drive into Kakadu NP, probably one of the principal motivating forces in our journey taking the route it had, the others being Uluru and the Flinders Ranges. Our planning the evening before had determined to spend half our time in the northern section of the park and the other half in the southern. Therefore, our destination was Meri Campgrounds, the accommodation which services Ubirr.

We arrived in mid afternoon and despite a disagreement over the specific placement of the Taj Mahal, we had all gear in place by 16:30 and were ready to wind down, cook tea and prepare for the night.

A chance encounter at the ablutions, directed me to bundle the family in the car and make haste to Ubirr - the large rocky outcrop north west of the campground - as it would have been "criminal to miss what happens there at sunset". So, whilst still tucking my shirt back into my trousers and moving at a half trot, I rounded up the crew and off we went.

The short drive of 1.5 kilometres, gives way to a 1000 metre circular walking track, with Ubirr halfway round. Sue was salivating at the signs indicating art sites, but time and a desire not to rush what was on offer in the way of aboriginal art, meant we bypassed these in order to climb the rock.

Ubirr is what is called an "outlier": a rocky remnant of the original Arnhem Land escarpment which
remained standing even after the escarpment receded because of weathering. It is believed the sandstone here was harder than the surrounding rock and it resisted weathering. It rises about 70 m above the surrounding plain and the approach is through sparse dry woodland. It is not until you are about halfway up the climb you first get a glimpse of the secret this approach is hiding. Reaching a wide, fiat surface about two thirds of the way up, the view to the west is revealed and what a view it is.

This was our first sighting of wetlands, Top End style. Before us was a flooded plain of blue, shallow water, covered with a vast array of bird life. Magpie Geese rushed into the air before resettling in huge flocks, ready for another Adrenalin rush which would take them into the sky. Cockatoos swooped and turned in great white clouds, before invading flooded gums and giving them a snow-covered appearance. Spooked, they screeched into the blue sky again and complained their way to
another roost. Wallabies grazed lazily in the late afternoon sunshine. A group of black feral pigs made their busy and destructive way past a rocky outcrop below and to the right of us. Two Rainbow Bee Eaters played their game of swoop and swerve from high vantage points in a taller tree
near the cliff face, in search of some early supper.

All the while, a golden sun gained redder hues as it slowly descended over this natural wonderland, turning the water from bright blue, through blood red and to a final pale gold in the after glow.

Seeing that red ball, low on the western horizon, the flag which Cathy Freeman had again brought to
prominence at the Commonwealth Games, was more than appropriate. It occurred to me, her joyous act of combining the two Australian flags, was symbolic of a marriage which is yet to happen successfully in Australia, but one which could bring great pride and contentment, should it ever be possible.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

I left Ubirr in the enveloping darkness, feeling humble, proud, awestruck and in some ways, numb. It was certainly sensory overload, but the physical beauty had triggered more than just a personal memory for years to come. It had also ignited a level of consciousness about my country and its problems which was to be further fuelled by events, people and places in the ensuing weeks.