TOD Tour 2.0 Day 68 - Winton to Barcaldine

Coffee at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs

Much better day today. We both slept well and what ever collywobbles had infected Sue yesterday were washed away by this morning.

With less than 300kms to travel today on our relentless and unplanned return to home, we made a later start and revisited the Australian Age of Dinosaurs, which was only a slight detour off our chosen track for the day. We got there not long after it opened, received a warm welcome and went to the large, open cafe area which faces the western view from the top of the mesa (or jump up as they are called in Australia). Apart from the flies, this was a pleasant 45 minutes and the coffee was very good this time around.

Back of the road heading south east to Longreach, we were right into the teeth of the wind and therefore took the pace off to conserve fuel. We passed the time listening to podcasts.

Click for today's photos

At Longreach, we found a cafe we hadn't used before and had an excellent lunch.

The wind had largely blown itself out for the last 100kms to Barcaldine. Like most of this track
home, Barcaldine is known territory so we were soon fueled for tomorrow, booked into the caravan park and set up inside ten minutes.

TOD Tour 2.0 Day 14 - Barcaldine to Winton

A good angle on the
Wellshot Hotel

Barcaldine to Winton: 341 kms (trip 2315 kms)

We continued west along a new highway - the Landsborough - as far as Longreach, which was only a whistle stop on this tour. Having seen its attractions in a three day stop in 2018, it was just a few groceries and on towards Winton.

Notable on the first leg to Longreach was morning tea in Ilfracombe. This small village, which has been known for many years for its display of farm implements that line the highway as it zips through town, was a curio we encountered on the QOT 2018. Change has hit the place since, with the destruction of the old general store and cafe. It had featured wide verandahs on which to enjoy a cuppa and take in the vista of the farm equipment but since our last visit, it has burned to the ground in a fire caused by an electrical fault in the ceiling cavity. The fire started as they were serving, with customers enjoying the verandah. No one was injured but the loss proved too much and the owners didn't rebuild.

In place of this lost coffee spot, the ever industrious people at the Wellshot Hotel have opened a hole in the wall from which they serve a good cuppa and a mean hot chocolate, among other things. The Wellshot is a place of great character and undoubtedly, greater characters. The bar is a hoot, with its display of hats, funny signs and joke photo opportunities. As was the case the last time we were here, the bar staff were young, Irish and full of fun. On the ceiling, there is currently thousands of dollars, soon to be cleared and given to charity. The deal is, you take a note from your wallet and a two dollar coin. They add a large drawing pin and scrunch it up to a ball shape. They throw it up to the ceiling where it sticks and the note slowly unfurls. If you catch the two dollar coin as it falls from the note, you get a free beer.

There is just so much imagination and dry outback humour at the Wellshot. Its a hackneyed saying but it truly is a must see.

After Longreach, its a 180kms northwest to Winton: pretty much flat, pretty much straight.

We booked in to the Tattersalls Hotel Caravan Park on what had become a warm afternoon. After setting up, it seemed obligatory I should have a Guinness at the bar or yet another colourful pub. Among its features are the flags of many nations attached to the ceiling.

The Royal Cinema

After dinner, we went to the Royal Cinema, the second oldest outdoor cinema in Australia (behind the Sun in Broome). Largely run as a family affair for much of its hundred year plus life, its currently leased by a not for profit who conduct tours and have evenings when they recreate the feel of the cinema in the 1960's. Sling back canvas chairs are arranged over a concrete floor which once doubled as a roller skating rink when times were tough and multi channel free to air TV came to Winton. The back part of the cinema has a brick floor. The bricks were originally the facade of the next door building which burnt down. Winton has a rich history of fire catastrophe. Of course, by outdoor, I mean it has no roof or ceiling, just a blanket of stars. One wall of the cinema is a corrugated iron fence, probably 15 feet high in old terms but for a section, it has a further extension above that. It was put there to stop the cheapskates from the North Gregory Hotel watching the feature from the second story windows!

We were shown old glass advertising slides of Winton business of fifty years ago, projected using a carbon arc projector that was at least 80 years old. It works by bringing two electrified carbon rods together to make an arc between them and a light bright enough to project. The operator is constantly bringing the rods together as the carbon is eroded by the procedure.

Click to see today's photos

There was a cartoon and some highlights of old slapstick and that was the evening done. We had bought the kids here in 1995 to see The Jungle Book, so it was nice nostalgia.

Tomorrow dinosaurs.

Old Tent Show & Thomson River Cruise

Our last day in Longreach was our best.

In the morning, Sue enjoyed visiting the School Of The Air.

Sue

The Longreach School of Distance Education was an interesting guided tour. A video presentation at the beginning gave all the information required to understand how it all works. A teacher told us more and answered questions. This was followed by a tour of the school. It’s been ten years since I last visited this type of school and technology has made a huge difference in how lessons are delivered. Impressive. Tours at 9 or 10:30 Weekdays. Allow 90 minutes.

Peter

While she took in all the new technology, I went over to the QANTAS Museum but having been there before, I chose the cheap option and wandered about taking a few photos of planes and then retired to McGinnesses Restaurant for a coffee and a long read of my current book.

We got back together to attend the Harry Redford Old Time Tent Show. It harks back to the old tent shows of the late 1800's when the punters came in and were offered amazing sights and tricks only to be fooled from their money. The two performers, brothers from the Kinnon Family, gave us a very funny show. Trained horses, dogs, even ducks, a loose story of a dopey bloke who is smart and a smart bloke who is dopey, some very well constructed humor which was made to look simple but was, in fact, very cleverly written. Two very funny brothers taking the mickey out of the stereotype of the country bumpkin and making city people laugh ... yet who ends up with the money? A really good show, suitable for all ages and part of a wider variety of activities offered by the one company.

Cruising on the Thomson River

That evening, we attended were well and truly entertained. Simply one of the best experiences we have had in all of our travels around Oz. Picked up by a luxury coach from our accommodation, loaded onto the Thomson Belle for an hour of cruising into the sunset along the Thomson River and then returning to a camp beside the river for a four course meal. During the meal we were entertained by the barefoot poet Scotty and Lane, who entertained us with that wry bush humour that is so quintessentially Australian. The food and the entertainment were first class. If that wasn't enough, we then walked a few metres to see a very advanced sound and light show as part of a part animated, part live action retelling of the Captain Starlight story. Tea and damper was ready following and then the night closed with lights off except a single spotlight on the Aussie flag and a spirited rendition by staff and visitors of the Australian national anthem.

This is such a cleverly constructed show which never deviates from is atmosphere of sharing a bushies camp and cleverly masks it professionalism and attention to detail. The masks never drop but the quality of performance is so good that you become completely engaged. The fact that this grew from a station owner's despair - Richard Kinnon - at how he might keep his property and grew into a broad range of clever entertainment is testament to the vision of those involved and their creativity.

Absolutely brilliant and not to be missed if you are in Longreach. I'm fairly careful with how the

Click here to see today's photos

dollars leave my pocket these days but this one was well and truly value for money. For mine, the top attraction among many top attractions here.

We even met some folks whose daughter had been our daughter-in-laws flatmate back in the day. Its a small world and out here, very flat.

Qld Outback Tour - Stockman's Outback Show

Lockie Cossor

Pretty relaxed day today.

This morning we went to the Outback Stockman's Show, put on by Lockie Cossor. It's held at the Stockman's Hall of Fame, in a specifically built outside arena.

Cossor is a former King of The Ranges (Murrurundi), proof enough that he is the real deal in his ability to ride horses and manage stock. This show sets out to tell the story of life for the old time stockmen, from training their horses and dogs, setting up their pack horses, equipment they needed and what life was like. He interspersed those practical demonstrations with his own stories of characters he had met and experiences he has had droving cattle. He uses a lot of humour and animals who have been trained to do tricks, like the pony which pulls the saddle rug off so he can't place the saddle.

He also throws in a few songs for the complete picture of the Australian singing cowboy.

It was an entertaining show and well worth attending.

We didn't go into the Stockman's Hall of Fame, having seen it twice and our opinion that too much is placed on walls to read being echoed by those who were seeing it now.

We had an excellent coffee at The Lazy Sheep in Eagle Street before heading home or a quiet afternoon.

Click to see today's photos

In the early evening, we went back to the Woolshed - the entertainment/eatery of the Longreach Tourist Park - and enjoyed listening to John Hawkes. Unlike last night, he sang mostly his own songs and what a difference that made. Each came with a yarn about their origin which added to what was good song writing.

Qld Outback Tour - Barcaldine/Ilfracombe/Longreach

Barcaldine to Longreach, 108kms, 10L/100kms

The Wellshot Hotel

A really fun day.

We left Barcaldine about 8:30 for the short drive to Longreach but decided to stop at Ilfracombe and what a good decision that turned out to be. After a cuppa at the General Store, a very tidy and hospitable establishment, we wandered up along a fence made entirely of vertical gidgee posts. In the process we passed the site of the former Railway Hotel, which had been in the hands of only three people. The death of the original owner saw the licence pass to his daughter. Our research fails us and we remember her only as "Sis" but remarkably, she remained the licensee of the hotel for 60 years from 1910. The new owners took over the licence in 1970 and lost the pub three years later when it went the way of many a Qld pub, burning down in 1973.

Hats at the Wellshot

Beside it is the infamous Wellshot Hotel, a place with so much character that its no wonder it has been named Qld's best pub often. Today, we met Chloe, a French Canadian native of Quebec currently in Australia to travel but who has been in Ilfracrome for the past three months. What a delightful person she was. The bar is full of the unexpected, from the cartoon murals painted high on one wall about events which have happened in and around town, to the big colourful mural at one end of the bar, to the collection of stockmen's hats which are on all the walls. There is even a pair of boots.

What strikes you most is the money on the ceiling: five, ten, twenty and even fifty dollar notes, hanging seemingly by magic from a ceiling of wooden boards; each note a donation to the local museum and in the dining room, a similar strange collection on the ceiling for Angelflight.

Money on the ceiling

It works this way.

You donate your note and Chloe puts a long shanked drawing pin through its centre. Behind the head she places a $2 coin and then she screws the note into a tight twist behind the coin. The parcel is then placed between your forefinger and index finger, sharp end and palm up. You propel the note to the ceiling where if successful, you may then wait for the note to unravel and the $2 to drop. If you catch it, you win a free beer.

I landed it and waited. When the coined dropped I was in the right spot, outside the line of the drop, let it fall into my palm and then just like Herschelle Gibbs, dropped my chance for legendary status. Only three have ever caught the falling coin.

Chloe

Great fun place and Chloe was a good sport. How she remains unattached was answered upon Sue's direct enquiry. She is waiting to marry a businessman. She'll wait a while in Ilfracombe.

Onto Longreach and we booked in to our park.

In the afternoon, we went in search of a new pair of boots. My old Redbacks died a few days into the trip and we had been told that T-Bone was the place to go. There we met our second impressive young laddy for the day, Jamie, who did an excellent job of getting me into a pair that suited me best. In the course of three quarters of an hour conversation she revealed her love of writing and desire to be published. What a wonderfully confident and articulate female to find in a place which for all of its history has been swamped in a dominant male culture. She was an exciting person to talk to and yet another example that books often have totally misleading covers. I hope she realises her writing dreams.

We managed to fit in a cuppa - again no decaf coffee - at The Secret Garden. A bit over one cup of Earl Gray from a tea bag cost $5 each. Missing Cafe 2340 and other cafes in Tamworth.

Click here for today's photos

This evening we had a few beers in the premises at the caravan park and listen to a local fellow sing some tunes. He was only average but had an interesting set list and had a lot of fun with his audience. Things don't have to always be all shine and sparkle or top quality if they are sincere.

Three nights here.

Longreach - Winton - McKinlay - Cloncurry (16th July) Cloncurry - Mount Isa (17th July)

Hitch tongue had come loose, requiring more delays.

Longreach - Cloncurry - Mount Isa 647(2548) kms

I wrote a lovely newsy long blog but lost it in an accident of poor concentration. Now, in my disappointment, I can't recapture all of it so you will mostly get the down side of the last few days.

Last two days have had their difficulties. The problems with my breathing in Yamba have worsened and that plus worry about the days ahead led to a panic attack as we left Longreach. Sue, as usual, was wonderful and got us both through it.

It was a long drive to Cloncurry.

Nice caravan park in Cloncurry. Nice neighbours. Sue made a splendid salad - the best I have eaten. We had decided to stay in Cloncurry until I could see a doctor. Pack up this morning went well until I discovered the hitch was loose on the trailer A frame. Mechanic spent half an hour replacing the bolts and charging me $50.

Doctor next. She diagnosed asthma (returning after fifteen years) which, in the end, was no surprise. $100 worth of puffers and $60 worth of doctor should fix it.

We had lunch in Cloncurry’s bakery. Delicious bread rolls and hot chocolate. Fuelled the car (171.9c/L) and off we went – finally - to Mount Isa, a short hop to the west. Great scenery on the way but I can't describe it again (you should have seen the first draft!).

Sue and I are both a bit low after the last few days of set backs. We will endure.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

For those of you interested, we have travelled 2365kms since leaving Tamworth and the Forester is averaging 10.08 L/100kms (28 miles/gallon). I’m pretty happy with that result as the little beast is loaded and towing the trailer.

Crappy blog, but best I could raise second time around.

Longreach

QANTAS Museum

Birds woke us again this morning. Looks like McCartney has spread the word I like to be woken

pre-dawn by beautiful bird calls (McCartney is the blackbird who sings me awake at McRae St home). The sun rose to blue skies and what would eventually be 25C (for those shivering down south). We had slept so well in the Forester, this time with the moon roof open and the big tarp set over the campsite so there was no condensation inside the car.

We took off for the QANTAS Foundation Museum and a tour of the 747 which they have on display. It was a very informative tour, even if the guide spoke faster than Nikki Lauder used to drive. The interior of the big plane was fascinating. We got to see the black boxes (which are in fact, orange), the computer bay, the cockpit and Sue climbed inside he rear cargo bay. I took lots of photos and was pretty much in my element. We also had an hour in their excellent museum which told the story of QANTAS in a variety of ways making sure everyone gained from the experience. We would highly recommend it to those in the vicinity.

The Stockman's Hall of Fame

After squatting on their lawn and having lunch in one of the only available pieces of shade - I wanted to sit under the 747 but the staff wouldn't be in it - we went across the road to the Stockman's Hall of Fame.

Maybe it’s because we have seen it before - 13 years ago - or maybe it’s the style of presentation which relied far too heavily on written information and not enough on interactive displays, but we weren't impressed. It was cheap as these things go but left us flat. I do take particular issue with the fact that there was no mention of the role of indigenous stockman in opening up the outback - no photos, no info, nothing. For those who were with us in '95 and remembered the furore which was happening while we were here about the removal of the outside show featuring two local stockman who demonstrated the training of dogs and horses in station work, you will be interested to know that virtually the same show is running again but with different performers.

I fixed some business details in town and fuelled the Forester (164.9c/L), before returning to the caravan park to run the rule of thumb over our finances. Thanks to the “mobile as a modem” plan from Telstra, the laptop and internet via mobile reception, I'm able to keep in touch with everything. I must say, phone reception is remarkably better than it was in '95, when I carried a 2kg brick with a transponder four times as big as both our mobiles put together. Then, I was lucky to pick up dust on the cover!

TODAY'S PHOTOS

Whilst I attended to business, Sue lolled about in the spa and then had a hot shower. We have a tough life!

Cloncurry tomorrow. 28C and mostly sunny.

Charleville - Augathella - Tamba - Blackall - Barcaldine - Longreach

Charleville - Augathella - Tambo - Barcaldine - Longreach 516(1901) kms

We had to make a late start this morning owing to my reluctance to adhere to an old adage of my father's - when you replace one part, replace the lot. In particular, whenever you repack the hubs of a trailer, replace the split pins. I discovered considerable movement in the wheel bearing on one side of the trailer yesterday in Morven and had to tighten the castellated nut by a sixth of a turn. Having not replaced the split pins when I repacked the hub with grease before the trip, I shouldn't have been surprised when an old pin fractured. Therefore, we waited for a supplier to open this morning in Charleville so I could make this minor yet vital repair - new pins in both sides and we finally hit the road at 9:00am but not before we returned to town and purchased a new camp stove. The old one - still in our trailer after 32 years service - had too many broken worn out bits to make it worth repairing.

Our morning had the perfect pre-dawn start with a phalanx of kookaburras waking us in song - what a glorious sound it was! If I needed only one excuse to be here, this was it. The other feature of the caravan park was our first sighting of a mob of Grey Nomads. Interesting species. They flock into great herds for safety and the benefit of always talking to someone who is like them. Special gathering times are at dusk, when they wander campsites, have drinks and swap tales of profitable feeding grounds and in the morning when they break off into groups of two and three in order to prepare for their day, often preening their feathers and equipment to make sure it is ready.

Sue had talked up Augathella as a source of bush art, including sculptures and murals, so we naturally turned in with keen anticipation, despite being behind schedule. The artists must have been on holiday or hiding behind a tree.

On to Tambo for lunch by the Tambo Lake and despite an exaggeration - this is a small dam at best - we had a lovely hour with geese and ducks and Willy Wagtails.

At Barcaldine, where I stopped and did some computer banking in order to assist Sam with medical supplies. Whilst I was occupied, Sue was off to buy coffees. We have discovered that things are a little different out here in the outback (we officially passed into the outback today). No decaf, no lattes, no soy. Out here, they make song and dance about selling Nescafe instant!

The last 100km to Longreach helped make the decision to stay an extra night and have a rest from driving (1600kms in three days). We booked into the Gunadoo Caravan Park, which is the biggest we have stayed in. 260 powered sites and an endless panorama of caravans and Winnebagos. We set up quickly and disappeared into the outdoor spa even quicker. Sue cooked tea on the new stove - thumbs up - and then we caught the remains of Brooks & Magee, a country act playing at the park. A few red wines made them sound better than they were. Lots of Johnny Cash, a bit of Slim and two great country classics, "The Gambler" and "Harper Valley PTA". I am ashamed to admit I sang along and knew most of the words.

Stockman's Hall of Fame and the QANTAS base tour tomorrow. This is so much fun!

AUC 1995 - Stockman's Hall Of Fame (Longreach QLD)

A mild night and much better sleep than at Carnarvon Gorge, although punctuated by frequent trips tothe toilet. The down side Of staying in caravan parks is the need to accompany the children to the toilet and with two boys in the family, I get to make twice as many trips as Sue.

Our reason for stopping at Longreach - the Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame and Cultural Centre - was to dominate this day. The Hall of Fame was opened by Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II on 29th April, 1988 and has no doubt been a boon to the small rural town of Longreach. Originally a concept of bushman and painter Hugh Sawrey in 1974, the company was incorporated In 1977 and operates independent of any government assistance. Feiko Bouman, a Sydney architect, designed the buildings, which give the appearance of being elongated galvanised iron water tanks which have been turned on their sides.

As well as providing excellent static displays of pictures and information relating to the role of stockmen, pastoralists, women and aborigines in the opening and partial taming of the outback, it also features significant use of computer technology through various access points to databases and the selection of video clips relating to the displays around each terminal. Another clever piece of video technology is the screening of a face-only image onto a white dummy's face. The face sits a-top a mock drover who is ensconced about a camp fire on a dark, outback night. The "Talking Drover" speaks of the deeds of famous stockmen and of the romantic, yet hard life they led. Most effective.

The Dick Smith produced movie "Cattle King" is on show from a small screen in the midst of a display about Sir Sidney Kidman. An excellent production - starring Australian character actor Martin Vaughan as the aging Kidman - it would have been enhanced by showing it in the main theatre.

An introductory slide presentation takes place in the main theatre on the half hour and this was a stirring piece, with striking photography and apt, bush music to accompany it. The final shot of this presentation has left an indelible image in my mind - a young stockman in close up, standing behind his horse and looking over the saddle, with his hat low on the brow and his resting arm draped on the saddle, obscuring all but his eyes. A powerful, evocative picture which again proved the truth of the saying relating pictures and the number of words they represent.

One item from the static displays which impressed me was the story of legendary shearer, Jack Howe. He held a world record which stood for 60 years, for shearing 321 sheep in 7 hours and forty minutes. In fact, the record was not broken until mechanised shears greatly sped up the process. You see, Howe had set the record with hand shears! He is reputed to have had hands as big as the head of a tennis racket and could hold a sheep in a manner no other man could copy.

Outside the Hall of Fame, we were entertained and informed by the Currfamily, from the famous Dagworth Station - the place were A.B. Paterson wrote "Waltzing Matilda". Their show was one of wry humour and highlighted the work of dogs and horses on these large properties and in relation to sheep and cattle in particular. To demonstrate the control and discipline of their dogs, Damien Curr released four ducks from a pen and worked them around the arena, past and through obstacles and finally, back Into their pen. During the demonstration he used a combination of voice and whistle commands to direct the dogs into position. To highlight these commands evenfurther, he selected a child from the audience, who also had to respond to the commands and move in the manner he was told. We were left wondering as to whether his parents were busily writing down the commands for later use !

Brother Brendan "Winks" Curr - new to the show that day - gave a great display of horsemanship in both riding and cutting. His mount moved instinctively with him and it was hard to tell who was doing the most thinking in working the beasts into position. His piece de resistance was to remove the saddle and bridle from his horse, direct it around the small stadium using his body movements and legs and then have it sit down to allow him to dismount The horse then lay down and snorted as though it was going to sleep ! Throughout, the love and gentleness displayed for the animals and the excellence of their performance, was a great recommendation for their owners methods.

Including lunch, The Stockman's Hall of Fame was $70 well spent and if all of the "attractions" we were scheduled to attend were of this calibre, we will have had good value for money.

The only disappointing aspect of the day, was the knowledge the "live shows" were to be scrapped by the Board of Management of the Hall of Fame. They felt the shows detract from the Hall. This was not the feeling of the people who saw the show and one was left with the belief there was more to this issue than met the eye. As in Carnanxm NP, another enquiry would be forthcoming once we reach home. As it was, Pa and I wrote three page letters to the Board and left them in the suggestion box.

The bulk of the day spent, we returned to the caravan park for more of our hosts lukewarm water and
hospitality. Despite the great temptation - he said facetiously - of a bar-b-q and entertainment for $5 a head, in the "Entertainment Area immediately adjacent to the toilets", we declined the invitation and ate in our own digs. As the revelers in the Entertainment Area regaled in laughter at the Irish humour of Hal Roach, we provided our own entertainment with after dinner cards under the Big Top.

Postscript
Following our return home, a letter was received from the Stockman's Hall of Fame, expressing
happiness we had enjoyed the live show and explaining that the Board hopes the Curr's will find
another venue to operate in Longreach, as many people have enjoyed their show !

AUC 1995 - Barcaldine

Longreach (Qld): 11th to 13th July.
Emerald, Alpha, Barcaldlne (Capricorn Highway) 418 kms

Our morning started earlier than normal, with a walk down to the lake and a view of the sunrise. The bird life was plentiful and the morning sounds alone were worth recording. The pack up was smooth and we were on the road by 8:50, with Sue having her first spell behind the wheel for the trip.

Morning tea was taken on the summit of the Drummond Range at the site of the official opening of the sealed road surface over the ranges. This was as recent as 1984 and was performed by Sir Joh himself, more than amply assisted by the Minister for Everything, Russ Hinze.

Following another roadside lunch, this time just outside Barcaldine, we traveled the short distance into the town and photographed the Tree of Knowledge, famous for it's role as the rallying point for the shearers involved in the Shearer's Strike of 1891. It was this meeting which was responsible for the formation of the Australian Labor Party. The tree has seen better days, and was recently attended to by a tree surgeon. Radical surgery was necessary to save the tree and parts of it were encased in wire and cement to strengthen and support it.

The other point of interest was the Workers Heritage Centre, which was opened in 1991 and contained displays and tributes to unions and working men and women over the last century. There is a railway display which includes a rail carriage and station, with voice descriptions and recreations of past days. Other displays have been mounted by the Police and Education Departments and various unions. A highlight is the theatre used for the travelling Australian Bicentennial Exhibition in 1988. The large tent structure was purchased for $45 000 by the group running the Heritage Centre and has become a permanent fixture on the grounds. It shows a variety of slide presentations, including "Celebration of Australia" - a combination of slide and video footage which drew on the people and places which give Australia its unique nature. The tent - or marquee - has a square rigged girder standing vertically in its centre. This supports the weight of the polyplastic roof and walls and they are pulled into position by a motor at the base of the central column. Three pantechnicon bodies provide the operating rooms for the theatre. The original anchors for the central column were the prime movers, but these have been replaced by permanent cement anchors.

Having visited the Bicentennial Exhibition when it was in Armidale, it brought back warm memories of what was on show and the way it stirred my patriotism.

A refurbished one teacher school was another of the excellent buildings which were part of the complex. In this building, there were examples of desks, ink wells, wall charts and work that was typically part of the daily routine in schools 100 years ago. Excellent audio presentations, including reminiscences of ex-pupils and teachers, classroom dialogue and historical perspectives, also added to the character of this building.

The last building we visited was formerly the Barcaldine Primary School - an elevated weatherboard
building so typical of the schools in Queensland. This now houses a tribute to various unions and both State and Federal Labor parties, but as time was running short, we were not able to fully utilise these excellent displays to enhance our knowledge beyond cursory glances.

The final 100 or so kilometres to Longreach passed uneventfully and we arrived to the confusion that is the Gundaroo Caravan Park. Our first encounter was trying to sort out the sites we had rung ahead to confirm from Barcaldine an hour earlier. This was one of the only parks which had not responded to my enquiries - on two separate occasions - as to bookings etc, so it came as no surprise they would have forgotten us in the space of one hour!

After some discussion, the space cadet who doubles as the male owner deferred to Mrs Cadet and two sites were found. Ours was right behind the office residence and closely resembled their backyard. The sites were so small, I inadvertently assembled the tent across two of them - not hard to do as the second of the two sites was not marked! It further transpired they had booked a site for us in response to my mail booking request six month earlier and we were now double booked. The owner assured me they seldom reply to booking requests. It was easier, he said, to book the sites and wait for people to turn up. Of course, when I had rung from Barcaldine, this system didn't allow him to recognise he had a booking!

An ongoing element of discussion during our stay was to be the lack of hot water and many were the
conversations ranging from laughter to anger that were to be had with park patrons on the subject. We ultimately eliminated the problem by preparing solar showers each day and hanging them in the shower stalls in the place of the conventional supply.

We were in the back blocks now!