Day 10 - Monaco

Sculptures in the gardens
on "The Rock"

It was an early start by chance which managed to capture the Casino bathed in first light sunshine from our balcony at least an hour before the lady of the house woke.

Later then, we ventured to the 7th floor for breakfast on the deck with its million dollar view of the Cote d'Azur. It was sizzling by eight o'clock but with a view and accompanying breakfast that removed all discomfort.

The first half of the day was to the old part of Monaco, called The Rock and incorporating the old town and the Prince's Palace. It was quite a place. Starting from an underground carpark, it was two elevator rides separated by a crowded lift which took us up to a point beside the oceanographic institute which had been a particular favourite of Prince Rainier and had featured Jacques Cousteau as a long term director. We walked up into the old town and stopped by St Nicholas Cathedral to view the burial plots of Princess Grace (formerly Grace Kelly) and her beloved husband, Prince Rainier III. My Mum would have been impressed.

We didn't go into the Royal Palace, against Sue's wishes. Instead, we made our way back down through gardens which were beautifully maintained and contained exquisite statues. We ate lunch with the help of what a local referred to as a gullard - an oversized seagull who was keen for scraps.

The amazing fountains at
Villa Rothchild

Rejoining the coach, we traveled out to the Ephrussi de Rothchild (Villa Rothchild), located on an isthmus to the east of Monte Carlo. An example of money gone crazy, the villa was largely the result of excess by Baroness Beatrice de Rothchild after the death of her husband. It makes for an impressive dwelling, with its sumptuous bedrooms and collections of Chinese clothing and porcelain on the inside and musically coordinated fountains and accompanying gardens on the outside. Every twenty minutes, a new piece of classical music is orchestrated by fountains which flow in unison to the music playing in the gardens. Placed as it is, strategically above the cote d'Azure and it's resident display of power and wealth through boating and dramatic buildings, it is a place well worth the seeing but sick with money and the power it brings.

Dinner in the hills
behind Monte Carlo

The evening was at a country restaurant bookended by a spectacular drive which climbed slowly through hairpin bends of the 3 Corniches, coastal roads which run almost parallel between Merton and Nice and reveal much about the glorious coast line, the cleverness of the engineers who constructed the roads and the sharpness of our driver. It was hair raising stuff. However, the payoff was seven courses of delicious fare and almost too much red wine ... almost.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

The late evening was marked by those who wished to visit the famous Monte Carlo Casino and those that didn't. I was nearly alone as one who didn't and Sue was a loud protestant for those who did. As a result, we had a rare moment of disagreement which, as always, ended in her doing as she wished. I won't die in anticipation of her early return. Having marked out her territory, she'll be sure to exaggerate her ownership of the decision and her return will be late.

Day 11 - Monaco

Breakfast view

Sue slept in and I was left alone, in the open air, rooftop restaurant, with every conceivable breakfast treat you could imagine and only the chef and the Mediterranean for company.

Sue eventually woke up but took some convincing it was 9:30am. She was gone for an hour or so, whilst I had free time for writing.

With a free day ahead of us, we put the walking shoes on, heading up the staircase behind in front of the hotel which led to the Casino. We walked around it, took pictures, admired some more big boats and eventually found ourselves outside the main entrance. Opulence was matched by automobiles, with every high performance car you can imagine in the parking lot. The Hotel de Paris flanks one side of the square and exclusive eateries the other. On the top side, a beautiful park climbs the hill, the green broken by  spectacular fountains and the almost obligatory thoughtful sculptures. Princess Grace is said to have played a major hand in the establishment of parks and gardens.

To the west is Le Metrolpole, a shopping centre much like we have at home. Just imagine Kmart Plaza with chandeliers, spiral staircases, concierges in the toilets and every shop costing you the basic wage just to walk in and drool. Despite not possessing the entry visa for such an establishment, we blundered in - as is the Australian way - me with French limited to pleasantries and requests for water and Sue with her near perfect French accent wrapped around English words. Despite the odd handicap and the exacting eye of the security guard, we managed to find a pleasant little cafe off the main jewel encrusted thoroughfare. The security guard, who quite obviously was not fooled by my yocal appearance (wide brimmed hate, Woodstock T-shirt and Redback high ankle walking boots) and had me pegged for an international jewel thief, retreated to talk with his mates - it was either that or he had sore ear, because he kept fingering it.

I had pasta, Sue gnocchi and both of us exhausted a bottle of Chianti without the digestive aid of liver beans or human organs. It was delicious.

It was hot outside: amend that, it was bloody hot outside and despite hats and sunscreen and water and dispositions attuned to prolonged sunshine, the walk to the beach was a scorcher. We didn't stay. I didn't have trunks and Sue didn't have the boobs.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

Back at the hotel, air conditioning was a cooler and calmer alternative and there were other things to catch up on that the unrelenting pace had interrupted. Swept up with our romantic surroundings, we hung the sign on the door for a tete a tete. With that in mind, a word of caution to future travelers ... don't put the "Please make up my room" sign on the door when you mean to put out "Do not disturb."

There were no winners in the unexpected and embarrassing event which followed.