Showing posts with label Mt Morgan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mt Morgan. Show all posts

Wednesday, 15 April 2015

TOD Tour, Day 64 - Mt Morgan

Camp Kitchen
Our night and subsequent day at Mt Morgan were very pleasant.

Absolute cracker of a caravan park. The Silver Wattle Caravan Park, just a small, family run business, owned and run by a young couple who have travelled about Australia and gathered all the ideas they liked best and tried to put them into their own park.

As I say, it's small ... a few cabins and twenty five sites ... but it's fabulous. The amenities were clean and really well maintained ... you turned the lights on and off like it was your bathroom at home. When we arrived, we were told to pick a spot we liked, given four huge eggs from their chickens and a ten minutes description of what there was to do in Mt Morgan and a potted history of the place. The camp kitchen had a full size fridge/freezer, microwave, gas bbq, tv, cutlery, plates, cups, spoons, toaster, electric kettle, condiments, tea towels ... and a pizza oven! There is a constant feeling of brightness about the place and owners, Sarah and Mark, are improving the place daily. Old cabins are being demolished and new ones put in their place.

It was all built into the style of an old shearers hut, with authentic slabs and corrugated iron roof. At one end was a camp fire ring, which they apologised for not firing up at night, where they normally have happy hour and shout guests nibblies! Outside the camp kitchen is a herb garden and beside it a vegetable garden which are there for guests to pick fresh produce from!

The owners dropped in during dinner to see if we needed anything.

The next morning, Sue got acquainted with their miniature horse which they bought on Gumtree. It had looked bigger in the photos. It is used as their lawn mower and provides fertiliser for the veggie garden.

All of this, plus a powered, level, shared site in return for $25 a night and a weekly rate which translates to a bit over $18 a night. The best value on the road in all the hundreds of thousands of kilometres we have travelled around Australia since 1978. 

This morning, after bacon and eggs which were nearly two centimetres thick, we went into Mt Morgan, starting at the two look outs. The town has been built in a shallow bowl between and including short, sharp hills, through which the Dee River flows. It exists because gold was mined here from 1882. Silver and copper have also been mined in profitable quantities. The post office opened in 1885 and is one of the very substantial buildings in this heritage listed town. Like Mount Isa, only on a much smaller scale, the town is dominated by the now dormant mine which occupies its western side.

Mt Morgan Railway Museum
Mt Morgan is also important for the establishment of the railway line in 1898, at the behest of the mine which had transported gold by wagons down the rough track off the steep range and across the plain to Rockhampton to the north. The track, built up the mountain called Razorback, included a Swiss breaking system which used a notched rack which was laid beside the rails and special bogies fitted between the wheels with ratchet wheels which locked into the rack race. The climb and descent was so steep, it was the only way of making sure a lack of traction didn't occur in heavily laden trains. An example of the system is on display at the Railway museum ... along with some interesting photos, railway associated paraphernalia and a few examples of rolling stock.

The town has some very interesting buildings.

The first state secondary school in Qld still stands on the Burnett Highway, which runs through the centre of town. A tall, two storey building constructed of sturdy brick, despite being 103 years old, still looks as though it could last several more hundred years.

The School of Arts is the biggest public hall I have ever seen in rural Australia, with a full stage, an upstairs balcony with seating to view the stage and a high, high ceiling. It has been recently painted and looks in great nick.

Across the road is what used to be a pub but is now a private residence. It has a turret on the top which was used as a spotter's tower during WWII so that Mt Morgan would have an early warning if Japanese soldiers came over the range ... no, I haven't been drinking.

There are several murals painted on buildings depicting early life in My Morgan and their public toilet block is in the middle of the main street ... not halfway along ... I actually mean in the middle of the street. Perhaps that's because of all the drinking which used to happen in a town that once had 27 pubs and where beer used to be fetched in billy cans (cutters) and run out to the mine at the end of a shift. Every year, the tradition continues with a relay race for four runners who carry a cutter of beer between the remaining four pubs, with final runner chugging the cutter.

We went out to "The Big Dam" for lunch, which was, surprisingly enough, a big dam and the source of the town's water supply.
Themed shopping at
Rockhampton

Having been told of the treacherous road which finishes the climb up the Mt Morgan Range and then descends the Burnett Highway down to the plain and Rockhampton, we set out with some degree of trepidation: me with none, Sue with maybe 3 degrees. After all, the lady at the railway museum won't drive it, for fear of her very life ... not life ... no, no ... more important than that ... her VERY life.

All a bit of a fizzer really. Speed limit of 40km/hr. Lots of tight bends and a steep road. I just placed the cruise control on 40 and steered the car down the hill without touching the brake pedal once. Technology 1, steep mountain road 0.


We went on to Rockhampton, settled in,  did some shopping, planning, eating, laughing (it was Micallef night).    

Tuesday, 26 October 2010

A Little Less North to Cania Gorge

Burnett Highway, looking towards
Rockhampton from near Mt Morgan
I started this morning with good intentions and they were all taking me down the Bruce Highway, but somehow, when I reached Rockhampton, I headed inland instead. I had a brilliant night's sleep for me ... eight hours straight with no interruptions for toilet or noises or anything, just head on the pillow and out to it stuff. It doesn't happen often and it was a good night for it.

To that change of direction at Rockhampton ... I just followed an instinct and turned to Mt Morgan but as the day panned out, I'm glad I did. In the long run it was much more like a normal touring day - 288kms and lots of stops to fulfill interest.

The climb over the range to access Mt Morgan was a memorable one, with a narrow but well surfaced bitumen road climbing slowly and steeply up the side of the range with one memorable stop near the top to soak up the view. Rockhampton lay off in the distance, nestled, almost hand placed between mountains. It was one of those perfect blue sky and billowing white cloud days that make it impossible to take a bad picture, regardless of your ability. I had promised myself I wouldn't send mouth watering pictures of landscapes to Sue to magnify her woes but I just couldn't help myself because it was too good a view not to share.

From here it was a short hop to the township of Mt Morgan which for some reason fascinated me. Like many places in rural Australia, Mt Morgan became a town around the gold deposits found in its hills but unlike many others, it has survived well past its useby date. The hotels are antiques of their original time but are still popular with locals. The main street is, unusually, at right angles to the passage of the Burnett Highway and has three cafes, a museum, a video shop but no bank.

On opposite side of the road is the primary school which caters for children's dietary needs with no canteen but a staff member on duty at the pedestrian crossing ideally located just over the crest of a hill. The teacher on duty today was enjoying a fag or two under the shade of the fig tree growing in the middle of the street whilst children came and went with their hamburgers, thick shakes and hot chips. Bizzare was the word which stuck me first.

Mt Morgan has become a legend in its own lunchbox with its May Day Festival which brings people from near and far to listen to music, participate in the street markets and gather in masculine teams to "Run The Cutter" - a strange drinking game in which a pail of liquid is shifted from one pub to the other in between sculls.

The streets are full of heritage buildings which all needed a paint today. The former railway station is also the information centre and the ladies there were extremely friendly: one was friendly enough to buy my book so she has today's soft spot. More people wandered the streets in this town than any other place we've been and they were a strange collection. An odd little place but one I found hard to leave. There was a new poem on every corner.

However, leave I did and before long I was turning away from the Burnett Highway, going south to Biloela. The drive was straight forward but Biloela was a surprise, being much bigger than I had imagined and well serviced. I had an excellent chicken Caesar salad and mocha at Kristine's Cafe and then added some supplies for the few days left until home at the friendliest Woolworths you could imagine; which included having my two bags carried to the car for me by a pleasant 15 year old who asked me about 47 questions in the time it took to get from the checkout to the car. These/those were the days. I fueled up again in order to given me flexibility and then struck out for some place starting with M ... two of them actually but I never reached either because I followed a whim and turned into Cania Gorge National Park.

After only 14 kms, I could see why the area was a NP, with sheer sandstone cliffs rising from the river floor on alternate sides. Before leaving the car, I was already impressed. I drove past two commercial caravan parks in driving the full length of the gorge, arriving at the Cania Dam after about twenty minutes. Clearly the damn can hold more but it still made for pretty images.

Returning a few kms from where I had come, I landed at a Big 4 caravan park which has all the pluses you might want in such accommodation but is set out in a bush setting and creates the feeling of being low key. Obviously a busy place at sometime of the year, my site was not within 30m of the nearest other. The camp kitchen is an enormous cola and the swimming pools are all saltwater and well maintained - I sampled both. At 5:00pm, wild birds are fed and what a great show they put on. I followed this with a swim and shower and then made my way to the camp kitchen for a lonely pasta, only to find the company of a guy from Tamworth and his three fishing mates from Dubbo who are in transit to Lucinda - things in common in all directions. To make matters more bizarre, the Tamworth fisherman was familiar enough with my poetry to quote storyline and concepts. This was very weird as all four had presented as tough nut, Aussie blokes before the fellow from Tamworth "realised" who I was. You don't always need melting clocks to experience surrealism.

TODAY'S PHOTOS
A lovely day.

I probably should feel guilty for having garnished enjoyment whilst my poor wife suffers at home but I won't. This atones for tears yesterday.