MOT Tour Day 55 - Derwent River Cruise

Our last day of activity around Hobart, with the highlight being a lunchtime cruise on the Derwent.

From our drop off point in the heart of the city - at the Information Centre - we walked down to the waterfront and then along the docks to the Salamanca Precinct. Lots to see there, much of it more to Sue's interest than mine, so we went our separate way for about 45 mins. I found a terrific, old fashioned, second hand bookshop. Deja Vu Books is located in a small alcove of shops and its exactly what you have experienced before in used books - piles in all sorts of places; overstocked shelves; and gems poking up where you might least expect them. It was just wonderful. I had a long chat to the proprietor who told me Covid was tough, with three months of shut doors and no trading but now, there is an upturn continuing which was apparent before Covid. People, it appears, want books again.

Sue visited art shops and an art collective and did some retail therapy.

I found a set of steps which took you from Salamanca and up to Battery Point above (The Kelly Steps).

On my way back to our meeting point, I passed by the lawns of the Tasmanian Parliament, where an anti-Trans protest was building in numbers. An even bigger number of Trans supporters, were also gathering. Tonight on the news, it was reported that the Pride folks completely shouted out the Nazis and others but there was no violence. Good on both counts.

I had time for a cuppa and the first few pages of my new used book while I waited for Sue.

The span above is the replacement

Come midday, we boarded the Spirit of Hobart, a dated old ferry, for our two hour cruise which included a hot lunch. I was skeptical when the boat crew couldn't tie off correctly to a bollard and annoyed when we came down to the downstairs deck for lunch, only to find that the excellent commentary from the skipper wasn't being broadcast there. When we could hear the commentary, it was entertaining, interesting, full of information and very engaging. When he was telling us about the Tasman Bridge disaster, he was so animated that it was like hearing the climax of a true crime podcast! We've traveled on cruises that were more professional but given the low cost and a nice meal, this was very good value for money. The weather certainly favoured us. Clear blue skies all day.

After the cruise, we took advantage of the Kelly Stairs as Sue chased down a garment from a specialist store in Battery Point. Meanwhile, I happened on Narryna, a Tasmanian government owned historical building. In the 1830's, the seafaring Captain Andrew Haig built this two storey home for his family, after previously building warehouses which faced Salamanca Place. It's wonderfully well preserved and one of the best presented historical house I have seen. The support person on hand really knew their stuff and you'd have thought she was talking about ancestors. It was a family home for the vast majority of its life but was later a repatriation arm of the women's hospital which was once across the road. In one of the large rooms on the second floor, changing exhibitions are displayed - currently on women in whaling - giving the house greater flexibility.

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A coffee break - surprising isn't it - and then we started the walk back to our bus pickup at the information centre. We, of course, included ice creams from Van Diemen's Land Ice Creamery, as you do. The final bit of history was gathered at Constitution Dock, where the sailing boat Westward is permanently moored. The Westward won the Sydney Hobart in 1947 and 1948. Amazingly, before the 1947 event, she had an engine and propeller and was used as a commercial fishing vessel!

Our last Red Decker ride up to the Botanical Gardens was a nice reminder of the lovely experiences of the previous four days.

Port Arthur tomorrow.

MOT Tour Day 53 - The Big Red Bus

On the Big Red Bus

After three tries, we finally secured our Big Red Bus tickets (The Red Decker) this morning. We would have had it on the second attempt, this morning but some bozzo left his wallet in the van, requiring a return trip to the caravan park and although we got back to the pick up with two minutes to spare, a toilet call ruined all the good make up work.

Oh well. We had an extra hour at the Botanical Gardens. Sue communed with plants. I communed with the cafe, sitting high above the gardens on a sunny balcony, drinking French Earl Grey, writing and chatting with my brother, Art. How I value his counsel.

Once on the bus, a routine familiar from every major city we have visited, clicked into play. The red bus phenomenon, modelled on the London bus, is always a way of gaining an overview of a city and helping in the process of planning what to see. As always, the drivers were really helpful, including this afternoon, when we were standing on the designated stop in the city and only found out it was a drop off only stop. The driver stopped anyway, because it was the last run of the day. Had he not, we would have been stranded, as we had free-parked at the Gardens all day.

After we gave the city the once over, we went down to Constitution Dock and had our sandwiches. We are such provincials!

The afternoon was mostly a visit to the Maritime Museum and a shorter visit to the Art Gallery and Museum.

The Maritime Museum

The Maritime Museum was a cracker. It’s run by volunteers with a great sense of humour and a deep knowledge of their subject. With a very moderate entry fee, the value is outstanding. There are two floors of exhibits. The second floor included part of the stern and keel of the Petrel, a schooner under the command of George Harrison, which sank in 1886 and whose remains were found on Hope Beach on Bruny Island, after a storm. It sparked excitement as it was first thought this was the Hope, which gave the beach its nomenclature. The Hope was shipwrecked sixty years early, supposedly with government wages on board.

It was not to be. I guess all things must pass.

There was also a recreated ward room of a skipper in the Australian Navy - very detailed and a clever use of video footage projected in portholes as though you were looking out on the scene at sea.

Back down on the first floor, an exhibition of writing about the sea included letters from captains and passengers involved in notable events at sea. This was engaging but needed transcripts typed beside originals to make reading easier.

There was a wheelhouse from a vessel and a working light from a lighthouse. In an adjoining room, a display of photos about pets at sea was excellent. One particular photo, of an infant sitting beside a dog on a companionway hat was very cute.

We may not be able to spend our entrance dollars to any greater value than this tour.

We walked a block to the Art Gallery and Museum, which has an excellent reputation. I have mixed feelings about the establishment. Those who read yesterday’s post which featured part of the story of Truganini will know that this is the establishment which exhumed her body and gave her body parts away to the Royal College of Surgeons in London. Long time ago and these days, the museum is a very active player in the moves to repatriate aboriginal remains.

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We had only an hour, so Sue entered and planned a longer stay tomorrow. Meanwhile, I ended the day the way I started it - in a cafe.

Leopards and spots and all that.