MOT Tour Day 12 - Cradle Mountain to Stanley

The old Waratah in old Waratah

It was hard to leave but we had to just remind ourselves that we have other new, startling, unexpected experiences ahead of us which we'll miss out on if we just stay comfortable in the shoes of current amazement.

It was hard to leave because we were both km sore. The pack up was slow and we only just beat the 10:00am pings. Cradle Mountain was back to type so we pushed through mist and drizzle for the first half hour, keeping us to about 70kph. We passed up the terrific view to the south from - I think - Black Range, because neither of our x-ray vision was up for it. The ups and downs of Belvoir Rd changed once we turned onto the Murchison Highway which would take us north.

About half way to Hellyer Gorge, we turned west to visit the town of Waratah. Like many of these small once-were-bigger town, it has an interesting past. Going from the five year wanderings in the wilderness of a Burnie farmer, James "Philosopher" Smith, who found tin at Mount Bischoff, to a thriving miners town. Its also the home a water wheel, designed and made by Duncan Kenworthy and when attached to a rudimentary turbine, the supplier in 1883 of the first hydro electricity in Australia. It was used mostly to supply electricity to the Mount Bischoff tin mine. There's a nice little museum run by volunteers with a sign that informs you the museum is only open from Wednesday to Monday. I did wonder why it didn't just say "closed on Tuesday". There is a quaint, two storey pub with a long history.

It is also one of the few places you will find with a waterfall in the centre of town! We had a cuppa in the aforementioned pub, The Bischoff Hotel and watched the water tumble over as we sipped away in the front window of the bar. So many contrasts but a waterfall and a dirty, ugly mine looming over the town are just two.

As we were leaving, vans and RV's and touring rentals clogged the road into town and were lined up along the main street, hoping to get a spot in the "caravan park" - spaces behind the town hall.

The Evergreen Archway

Between Waratah and Hellyer Gorge, back on the Murchison Highway, we passed through the Evergreen Archway, a section of road where the trees have grown over to meet those on the opposite side. Very pretty.

About 40kms up the Murchison is Hellyer Gorge, with winding, steep approaches from both sides. We stopped at the camping/rest where the road bottoms out and an elevated bridge crosses the Hellyer River. Named for the explorer - Henry Hellyer - it flows for 61 kms before joining the Arthur River. The rest area was underdeveloped but pleasant enough, with a set of flushing toilets. Before eating lunch in the van, we walked down to the river and followed in downstream until it met the road bridge. In my minds eye, it is what I imagined Tasmania inland rivers to be.

The rest of the afternoon was given over to reaching our spot for the next four nights, Stanley.

Click here to see today's photos

Postscript: after what seemed like a forever set up at the caravan park, we had fish and chips the famous
Hursey's Seafood Restaurant (from the takeaway downstairs) and after dark, Sue led me to the telephone box in the caravan park, on a tip off from people we met at Cradle Mountain. Just as they said, sitting beside the telephone box as though they were auditioning for Rainman, two fairy penguins, apparently waiting for they mother.

Tomorrow, a tour on the wild side on Tasmania's west coast where the greatest danger will be being blown off a cliff.

331 km @ 13.63 (1665 @ 12.25 km/100 L)