MOT Tour Day 13 - Woolnorth

An early start as we had a bit of a drive to get to our tour of the Woolnorth Station to the west.

Established in 1827 when the Van Demon Land Company landed six shepherds on the point at the extreme north of the area, the property has never really escaped from the violence those same shepherds perpetrated on the aboriginal mob who lived there. After twelve months living in harmony, the appointment of a new head of VDL, Edward Curr, marked a change in approach. In the words spoken today, he was a bastard. Convicts were the lowest form of life and they were expendable. Aborigines rated lower than that and VDL men knew that anything goes, after all, Curr was also the Chief Magistrate.

The scene of the massacre

In 1828, with no apparent provocation but definite planning, the shepherds waited until the men of the tribe had gone east for the annual trading with other mobs, and stormed into the camp and abducted six teenage girls. The returning men, chased some of the sheep off the cliff at what is known locally as slaughter hill. From there, it descended quickly into a blood bath. The shepherds soon after sighted a group of elders, women and children down on the black sand beach at Cape Grim and started shooting at them but with muskets were no chance of hitting their target from 70m above. The sound of the shooting drew the men to the cliff top, where they were massacred and their bodies thrown over the cliffs to the others below. With no way out except where the shepherds waited, it was only a matter of time.

A few survived but an entire group and their lore and traditions were wiped out.

The shepherds faced no charges.

Part of the Woolnorth Wind Farm

The property operated as a sheep and dairy concern for most of its life, although sheep were woefully unsuited to the climate and landscape. They finally ended in the 1980’s. It does remain an extremely valuable dairy producing farm and one of the main reasons why the area from Woolnorth to Devonport produces 35% of Australia’s dairy products. In recent years, Woolnorth has become well known as one of Australia’s first and still leading wind farm, with Tasmanian Hydro providing a large part of the power it supplies to the grid from Woolnorth.

50% of all of Tasmania’s energy needs are sourced from wind generators.

Our tour included an up close and personal look at one of the wind towers. These particular ones are 80 metres high and have 60 metre long, carbon fibre blades. The newer generation of towers are 120 metres high and have blades that are 100 metres long.

We had morning tea in the now unused shearing shed, where our guide, Laura, told us the heart-rending tale of the massacre at Cape Grim. We travelled up to the point and the coastal scenery was spectacular. On this clear, sunny day in light winds, it was hard to imagine threat but the winds here have been measured up to 160kph and the swells can be as high as 16 metres. It is more often a dangerous place and when the wind and rain aren’t providing mayhem, the Tiger Snakes who are prolific in the area, are happy to raise the threat level higher.

Restored bond store house

Hard to imagine on a day like today. Looking down on the black sand, it was even harder to imagine the cruelty handed out to a peaceful and generous host.

We have heard some disturbing tales in our travels and no doubt more await us at places like Port Arthur but this was disgusting.

Good tour. Laura was an excellent guide with lots of information and lots of courage.

This afternoon we had a late afternoon stroll around Stanley, with its old and well preserved buildings which have held many lives and been called on for many uses. We spoke with one couple who have bought what was once the bond store opposite one of the wharves. They have been three years on the task of not just bringing it back to a former glory but enhancing it in the process. All of the houses along two terraces look back across the wide bay to Rocky Cape, which is maybe 18 kms to the south east.

Click here to see today's photos

Of course, behind them is the imposing rocky mesa of The Nut, a volcanic plug remnant. We haven't explored it but like most tourists, its the reason we came. Tomorrow maybe.