TOD Tour 2.0 Days 47&48 - Leliyn

Lower Falls plunge pool

Our first out of range experience of the tour was at the northern end of Nitmiluk National Park, in the Leliyn section.

Formerly known as Edith Falls, it was one of the places most enjoyed by the crew when we bought the kids here back in the mid 1990's (AUC Tour). There are two falls but most only know the smaller bottom falls which drops into an enormous plunge pool which would otherwise be worthy of be called a lake. Its this body of water which lies beside the day use and camping area of the park and it is surrounded on three sides with near vertical cliffs. The combination of the cliffs and the expanse of water and the falls in the far distance, makes for stunning photographs, particularly in the late afternoon.

The Edith River empties at the pool at the south western corner, where a bridge crosses the river and provides the infrastructure for a substantial barrier to span the entire river/creek.

The barrier is there to keep crocodiles out.

When we visited twenty four years ago, we were told unequivocally that although freshwater crocodiles were present, they wouldn't eat you ... maybe just nip at your toes and feet or hands but only if you put them in the water after dark when turtles were the prized catch. We were also told, that estuarine or saltwater crocs were never found and would never be found at Edith Falls.

Arriving at the plunge pool on this trip, there were warning sign for saltwater crocodiles but the NT national parks consider the risk to be "very low". I have my own saying. "Very low means no, no, no".

Sue, of course, swam several times a day, floating out into the deeper water on her noodle like a human tea bag. The concept of her being in the hot water didn't escape me. Others swam. Kids, grandparents, backpackers: the latter crossing the 150m distance to the base of the Falls, lounging there and then swimming back, perhaps oblivious that a tourist drowned at the Upper Falls two weeks ago when they were sucked under by the current created by the falling water.

Click for today's photos

No one of them were attacked or taken by a crocodile. The conclusion is obvious. They were lucky.

We had two very pleasant days here. Being unplugged from family was part of that pleasure.

AUC 1995 - Sweetwater Walk

My morning started predawn, with a visit to the main pool.

Sitting there with a cup of tea and my camera, I was able to watch the colours change, as first the trees at the top of the ridge, then the walls and finally the water, were exposed to the initial hour of sunlight. Like much of what were becoming daily experiences, I was filled by the natural beauty of the scene which unfolded in the waking day. The thought that this had been happening, in much the same way, every day for thousands, perhaps millions of years, was very sobering. It again reminded me of the smallness of each individual's existence in comparison to the rest of creation.

A longer trek was to take us to Sweetwater Pool, after following the advice of the Ranger. He had observed that we appeared to be keen bushwalkers and we would enjoy the walk.

The track commenced after the ascent up the hill we had climbed to start our walk the previous day. From there, it became a real adventure. There was no track as such, just a succession of metal track markers which were attached to trees. This meant walking to each and then sighting the following one. The ground was rocky and uneven and this made passage very rough and slow, until we reached the river.

Sarah & Sam at Sweetwater

The next two kilometres basically followed the river through a succession of rock pools and small water falls. Again, it was the combination and strength of the colours which overpowered us. The water was clear, darkening to a rich blue in the deeper pools. At the water's edge, palms and trees grew with shades of green which were striking in contrast to the blues of the sky and water. The bed of the river was invariably a rich, profound red.

In this artist's palette of colour we spent several hours swimming - sans clothes, much to Sarah's disgust - eventually picnicking beside one of the the pools. To describe the feeling of relaxing in this fashion, is impossible. Suffice to say, thoughts of home and of the responsibilities there, where not even furthest from our mind... they just weren't there!

TODAY'S PHOTOS

Here we made our only real error. We swam too long and returned in the heat of the afternoon, resulting in three overheated and exhausted children, who struggled to complete the final kilometre of the return journey. An important lesson to learn.

The cool of the evening was a relief and we all slept very well.

AUC 1995- Edith Falls Walk

Edith Falls walk

Breakfast and on the track by 9:00 am, we were suitably attired for bush walking, with hats, sunscreen and packs, even though this was not to be a long walk.

Our trek took us over the ridge which towers above the peaceful, well grassed sites, immediately to the north of the campground. This track was under reconstruction, owing to massive damage done during the January flood. As the track was too steep for mechanical equipment, this was being done by blood, sweat and tears. The rangers were having to tote barrow loads of dirt and carry large stones into position in 25 litre plastic buckets. This was back breaking and leg building work, although the following day, one ranger was put on sick leave when he lost his footing and twisted his knee badly when carrying two of these heavily laden buckets.

Once up the steep initial 300m, the track winds toward the Edith River and the Middle and Upper
Falls which make up the Edith Falls system. We had been told, it was surprising how many visitors to the park neglected to walk this track and see these spectacular, additional falls.

We soon reached a vantage point above the Top Falls and were greeted with a wonderful view of sun
glinting on falling water and the resultant pool under each drop. The redness of the sandstone rocks from which the falls had carved their path and the blueness of the sky as a backdrop, further accentuated the beauty. Occasionally the wind would stir the pool, creating a myriad of bright reflections. Walking down to the pool, we were entranced by the fantastic beauty of this spot and paused to take it in.

Carrying on, you only gain a glimpse of the middle falls as you pass over a chain and rock track, through and over which the water is rushing the final ten metres before descending over the Middle Falls. However, the track continues past this point and about ten minutes later, a lookout reveals these middle falls are the largest of the three, at about 50m. Again, the setting of this view, was magical. Both Middle and Upper Falls were framed in the viewfinder by blue, green, red and orange, whilst the central attraction of rushing white water crashed to the deep blue /green pool below.

Above this lookout, we bush-bashed to the highest point and could look back at the falls and 180 degrees around to the west, toward Mt Todd gold mine, which is located off the access road to Edith Falls. In this picturesque setting, we ate morning tea, singing John Denver songs and generally considering ourselves very lucky.

TODAY'S PHOTOS

The post morning tea track resembled a rock scramble, in most part. The final 200m before entering the camp ground included a tranquil wooden bridge crossing the dry season benevolence of the Edith River and the sighting of a Whip Snake. This final encounter was enough to leave us all stamping the track and have the observer - Chris - in a state of cardiac acceleration !

Our afternoon was spent swimming and relaxing

AUC 1995 - Edith Falls (NT)

Edith Falls (NT)
(Stuart Highway) 105kms

90 minutes and we were moving to the much vaunted, Edith Falls. On the way, we kept our eyes peeled for Orangelanders, as the exercise, Kangaroo 95, was now well underway. However, to Sam's great disappointment, not an O'lander to be seen!

An important stop was the purchase of a new bed for Sue and I. The attrition rate on sleeping mattresses seemed to be high among the adults, but we could no longer accommodate the bubbled, lumpy blue thing which had once been a comfortable air bed.

We arrived at Edith Falls at morning tea time and immediately erected the big tent and organised gear. The weather was hot and after set up, it was lunch and for some of us, a rest.

As the slow coaches were waking from their afternoon kips, I took the first look at the main or lower pool of Edith Falls which is adjacent to the camping ground. A short 30m track leads to an oval shaped pool approximately 190m by 150m, bordered on two sides by sheer rock walls ranging up to 60m high. Off centre, in the pool, is a sand bar created by the swirling current created when the falls are flowing at maximum capacity during the wet season.

Another sand bar exists at the mouth of the Edith River as it flows from the pool and continues its course until joining with the Katherine River. For the most part, the Edith River is little more in width than a creek, but much of this has to do with the state we were seeing it in.

Despite the distance and height above the water, the camping area was actually flooded in January of this year, when 226mm of rain fell overnight. We saw pictures of the event at the Kiosk which operates under franchise to the NP Service of the NT. The folk operating the Kiosk and controlling the campground were both friendly and helpful and during our stay and we engaged them in conversation, ascertaining that the water in the pool reaches depths of 4 to 5m at this time of year and is the customary crystal clear we had come to expect of the water courses in the NT.

After rousing all of our party, we were back in numbers and soon enjoying the delights of the cooling pool. The sand bar near the river exit was perfect for the younger members, whilst Sue, Chris and I enjoyed exploring the deeper parts of the pool.

Coach loads of tourists passed through the pool during the afternoon, with the only cessation coming mid afternoon, when Sue thought she spotted a fresh water crocodile basking half in and half out of the water, on a rock on the far side of the pool. Everybody raced for the opposite bank. A knowledgeable American member of a coach party, informed them all it couldn't be a croc, as they never lounge in such an indeterminate fashion. They were always either in or out of the water, so back in they all went and many swam the 190m across to the falls, safe in the belief they had been scared by an over anxious Aussie who had mistook a log for a reptile.

When most of them were past the halfway point to the falls, I noticed Mrs USA's log slip quietly into the water and swim down stream. Apparently those swimming reluctantly to the falls also noticed, for there was a sudden, yet dignified retreat from the water. Mrs USA did not appear keen to further test her theory and announced that the water was making her wrinkly, so she was returning to the coach.

All of the information we had, was that "freshies" were of no concern, during the day. In fact, all of the few who were in this vicinity, were 1m long or less, as the rangers removed them when they exceeded this figure, Not that the larger "freshies" were of any greater risk, it was just they worried the tourists more !