TOD Tour 2.0 Days 47&48 - Leliyn

Lower Falls plunge pool

Our first out of range experience of the tour was at the northern end of Nitmiluk National Park, in the Leliyn section.

Formerly known as Edith Falls, it was one of the places most enjoyed by the crew when we bought the kids here back in the mid 1990's (AUC Tour). There are two falls but most only know the smaller bottom falls which drops into an enormous plunge pool which would otherwise be worthy of be called a lake. Its this body of water which lies beside the day use and camping area of the park and it is surrounded on three sides with near vertical cliffs. The combination of the cliffs and the expanse of water and the falls in the far distance, makes for stunning photographs, particularly in the late afternoon.

The Edith River empties at the pool at the south western corner, where a bridge crosses the river and provides the infrastructure for a substantial barrier to span the entire river/creek.

The barrier is there to keep crocodiles out.

When we visited twenty four years ago, we were told unequivocally that although freshwater crocodiles were present, they wouldn't eat you ... maybe just nip at your toes and feet or hands but only if you put them in the water after dark when turtles were the prized catch. We were also told, that estuarine or saltwater crocs were never found and would never be found at Edith Falls.

Arriving at the plunge pool on this trip, there were warning sign for saltwater crocodiles but the NT national parks consider the risk to be "very low". I have my own saying. "Very low means no, no, no".

Sue, of course, swam several times a day, floating out into the deeper water on her noodle like a human tea bag. The concept of her being in the hot water didn't escape me. Others swam. Kids, grandparents, backpackers: the latter crossing the 150m distance to the base of the Falls, lounging there and then swimming back, perhaps oblivious that a tourist drowned at the Upper Falls two weeks ago when they were sucked under by the current created by the falling water.

Click for today's photos

No one of them were attacked or taken by a crocodile. The conclusion is obvious. They were lucky.

We had two very pleasant days here. Being unplugged from family was part of that pleasure.

TOD Tour 2.0 Day 33 - Normanton

Just a short drive today to Normanton, to the south east of Karumba and also on the Norman River. It was marked by a totally unheralded event, when an oncoming vehicle flagged us down to tell us there were crocodiles ahead in a creek ahead of us. Sure enough, we found three freshwater crocodiles - one on the bank and two in the water. I'd guess the one on the bank was a male as it was a fair size for a freshwater croc.

Normanton is famous for two things: the Gulflander train and The Purple Pub. It is marginally famous for a third, Krys the Crocodile.

The Gulflander train is in its 128th year, having been started as a link between what was then a river port to the outside world and the goldfields at Croydon. Its claim to fame come from the design of its track, by a surveyor called George Phillips. He was concerned about laying tray across a vast, flat flood plain that regularly had flood water across it and the damage that would do to track. Therefore, he designed
a track that would literally run along the ground. He designed steel sleepers to overcome rotting of wood and buried them in the soil. The design was such that as the weight of the rails was applied, they would further bury themselves. This left just the rails above the surface and no obstruction to floodwaters. No raised bed and above ground sleepers to be washed away or eroded.

Despite this clever engineering, I very nearly gave this two stars and I would have but for the enthusiasm of staff and for the historic nature of the train. The problem for me was the train ride itself. Beautifully restored carriages and lots of information from the driver but the ride is so rough. I felt shaken by the two hours. The other problem is that once you’ve seen 15 mins, you’ve seen the whole journey. There are really no views. Train buffs will clearly love it but it wasn’t my cup of tea.

The Purple Pub: what a disappointment! Perhaps my expectations were too high but it didn’t meet them. One very ordinary bar and only two mid strength beers on tap and a restricted range of bottled beer. Bar staff didn’t seem interested in anyone but locals. No character. No interest. Just a paint job with nothing to back it up.

Krys The Croc was a different story. Near the local Council building is an 8.6m replica of a saltwater crocodile that was sot by a Polish crocodile hunter Krysina Powlowski in 1957 (that a tick over 28 feet in old money). Krys and her husband Ron established a croc hunting business around that time but the fame from this kill reverberated around the world. It remains the largest crocodile ever captured/killed in Australia. There are those that doubt the veracity of their tale but the facts should never get in the way of a good story. Regardless, the recreation sits menacingly on a brick plinth in the centre of town.

Click for today's photos

We finished the day out at the Mutton Hole Wetlands, just outside of town and a few hundred metres from the Norman River. We finally scored some photos of a pair of Brolgas, after having some false alarms with Sarus Cranes, which look very similar. We also saw Shell Ducks, a White Faced Heron and some more common birds like Pink Galahs and Magpie Larks.

Nice day.