TOD Tour 2.0 Day 33 - Normanton

Just a short drive today to Normanton, to the south east of Karumba and also on the Norman River. It was marked by a totally unheralded event, when an oncoming vehicle flagged us down to tell us there were crocodiles ahead in a creek ahead of us. Sure enough, we found three freshwater crocodiles - one on the bank and two in the water. I'd guess the one on the bank was a male as it was a fair size for a freshwater croc.

Normanton is famous for two things: the Gulflander train and The Purple Pub. It is marginally famous for a third, Krys the Crocodile.

The Gulflander train is in its 128th year, having been started as a link between what was then a river port to the outside world and the goldfields at Croydon. Its claim to fame come from the design of its track, by a surveyor called George Phillips. He was concerned about laying tray across a vast, flat flood plain that regularly had flood water across it and the damage that would do to track. Therefore, he designed
a track that would literally run along the ground. He designed steel sleepers to overcome rotting of wood and buried them in the soil. The design was such that as the weight of the rails was applied, they would further bury themselves. This left just the rails above the surface and no obstruction to floodwaters. No raised bed and above ground sleepers to be washed away or eroded.

Despite this clever engineering, I very nearly gave this two stars and I would have but for the enthusiasm of staff and for the historic nature of the train. The problem for me was the train ride itself. Beautifully restored carriages and lots of information from the driver but the ride is so rough. I felt shaken by the two hours. The other problem is that once you’ve seen 15 mins, you’ve seen the whole journey. There are really no views. Train buffs will clearly love it but it wasn’t my cup of tea.

The Purple Pub: what a disappointment! Perhaps my expectations were too high but it didn’t meet them. One very ordinary bar and only two mid strength beers on tap and a restricted range of bottled beer. Bar staff didn’t seem interested in anyone but locals. No character. No interest. Just a paint job with nothing to back it up.

Krys The Croc was a different story. Near the local Council building is an 8.6m replica of a saltwater crocodile that was sot by a Polish crocodile hunter Krysina Powlowski in 1957 (that a tick over 28 feet in old money). Krys and her husband Ron established a croc hunting business around that time but the fame from this kill reverberated around the world. It remains the largest crocodile ever captured/killed in Australia. There are those that doubt the veracity of their tale but the facts should never get in the way of a good story. Regardless, the recreation sits menacingly on a brick plinth in the centre of town.

Click for today's photos

We finished the day out at the Mutton Hole Wetlands, just outside of town and a few hundred metres from the Norman River. We finally scored some photos of a pair of Brolgas, after having some false alarms with Sarus Cranes, which look very similar. We also saw Shell Ducks, a White Faced Heron and some more common birds like Pink Galahs and Magpie Larks.

Nice day.

TOD Tour 2.0 Day 28 - Karumba Sunset

Sunset at Karumba Point

Burke Development Road - Burke & Wills Roadhouse to Karumba Point, 269km (3828km)

We slept well on the gravel at the back of the Burke and Wills Roadhouse. Correction: the van was on the gravel. Our bed was soft and warm.

Early enough, we bid our neighbours goodbye. A Kiwi couple, they shredded a fan belt about 90ms south of B&W, owing to the failure of unit which keeps the belt under tension. That was four days ago. They were still waiting on the parts arriving by courier from Townsville, 900kms away. He kept cheerily saying to passers by, "oh well, its all part of the experience".

The road north is in better shape than it was when we toured in 1995. Back then, most of it above the Roadhouse was single lane black top. When oncoming vehicles approached, you both got half off, half each on the road. When trucks came along, you just got right off the road. Now, more than half of it has been converted to two way, good quality bitumen, with sections of one lane, however there is still about 60kms before Normanton which is all single lane. Today, no trucks!

The early stage of the drive was marked by the emergence of termite mounds in the paddocks on either side of the road. Thousands upon thousands of them. Many were about knee height but some extended to almost full man-sized. They stand there eerily like a derelict graveyard whose ancient graves are so neglected they have eroded to the point of almost human shape, perhaps more like zombies. Its quite unsettling scooting past them at pace.

The 183km to Normanton was reached in a little over two hours. As is our custom, we found a good place for hot chocolate (there is less and less decaf available), snapped a shot of the Purple Pub and saddled up for the last leg to Karumba.

The bird life started to get interesting, with large flocks of what we took for Brolgas beginning to appear in the low clay pans that make up much of the distance between Normanton and Karumba. We later accurately identified them as Sarus Cranes. Our mistake was understandable as they are very similar. However, Sue spotted two Jabiru (Black Necked Stork) and I jagged one close to Karumba Point.

We soon settled into our digs, right out at the end of Karumba Point and after setting up, did a quick drive around re-orienting ourselves and then took a drive into Karumba, itself. A few jobs done, another recky and then back to the Point.

The highlight of the day was sunset. It was beautiful in its own right, but it rekindled one of the warmest memories our children have - and us - of that 1995 Australia Under Canvas Tour. Like then, we purchased barramundi and hot chips and went to the beach to watch the sunset. It was sensational. Hopefully readers will think so too when they review today's pictures. You wouldn't think it possible to make lightning strike twice but we not only succeeded but also linked the two events.

Click for today's photos

We retired to the pub, not a hard task given that it overlooked the same scene just three hundred metres away and perched as we had been, at the back of the beach. A couple of beers and a front row seat of the last of the changing colours above the horizon would have been enough, but the Barking Owl which swooped on a moth and then sat a few metres away on the branch of a tree eating its meal, certainly put the icing on the cake.

We love the road for all its varied days it throws up but days like today are the ones that bring you back.